Free Climbing · Golfo di Orosei · Sardinia

Living Limestone
on the Mediterranean.

Over 300 routes on compact limestone between the sea and the Supramonte. Legendary single- and multi-pitch climbs, walls reachable only by boat, world-famous caves.

Explore the Crags ↓ Get There by Boat →
Documented Crags13+ areas
Bolted Routes300+ single & multi-pitch
Difficulty5a → 8b+
RockCompact limestone
The Area

A world-class destination

Cala Gonone and the Golfo di Orosei offer a concentration found nowhere else: sea crags reachable only by dinghy, overhanging caves with 8b+ routes, multi-pitch climbs in the silence of the Supramonte, and single-pitch routes on perfect limestone just steps from the beach.

Rent a boat →
Grotta di Biddiriscottai 01 / 13 Mare
Cala Gonone · 15 min walk from the harbour

Grotta di Biddiriscottai

Sea cave · Compact limestone · 21 routes · 5b → 7c+

A path along the sea north of Cala Gonone, about 15 minutes from the harbour. Can also be reached by dinghy.

A spectacular cave with sand inside and routes that stay shaded all day. Stefan Glowacz made some of his most famous repeats here.

TypeCave / Overhang
SeasonAll year round
Routes21
Vie selezionate
Schiavi della Pietra7a/b
Incastro Maligno7b
Sirene al Muro5bgreat for beginners
See all 44 routes →
Spiaggia di Cala Fuili 02 / 13 Spiaggia
Cala Gonone · Beach access from Cala Gonone

Falesie di Cala Fuili

Beach · Two sectors · 44 routes · 5a → 7c+

Reached directly from Cala Fuili beach, 3 km from Cala Gonone.

The crags where "even children climb". Two distinct sectors on the north and south side of the beach: compact limestone, routes for every level.

SectorsNorth · South beach
Routes44
Vie selezionate
Lingua Biforca7c+
Catalonha7a
La Prua7b/c
See all 62 routes →
Codula di Fuili 03 / 13 Canyon
Cala Gonone · Inside the Codula

Codula di Fuili

4 sectors · 5a → 8a+

Heading up the Codula di Fuili from the inland side.

The canyon where the best sport climbing is concentrated. Four sectors: Raoni (hard routes), Tritoni (overhangs), Pederiva (technical routes), Thailandia.

RaoniTritoniPederivaThailandia
Vie emblematiche
Raoni8a
Visual Game8a+
Tritoni7b+
See all 128 routes →
Cala Luna 04 / 13 Solo via mare
Cala Gonone → Cala Luna · Dinghy or 2h trek

Cala Luna

2 sectors · Rocks + Caves · 6b → 8b+

By sea (dinghy from Cala Gonone, ~20 min) or a 2-hour trek from Cala Fuili.

Fine sand, fragrant oleanders, walls that drop straight into the water. The Grotte sector hides world-famous routes up to 8b+.

Scogli SectorGrotte Sector
Vie storiche
Eja8b+
El Gomone8b
Joey7a/7b
See all 41 routes → Get There by Boat →
Strada per Cartoe 05 / 13
Cala Gonone → Cala Cartoe

Strada per Cartoe

Sectors: Arcadio · Alveare · 33+ routes · 5c → 7c+

Head up from Cala Gonone towards Cala Cartoe.

High-quality orange-grey rock, long athletic routes. Best in the morning or on cloudy days.

Vie emblematiche
Un Panino e Via7c
Nonnorock7c+
Colpo di Sole7b
See all 61 routes →
Dorgali Atha Ruja 06 / 13 Panoramica
Dorgali · Ring road above the village

Dorgali — Atha Ruja

Pine forest + Walls · 39 routes · 4° → 8a

From Dorgali, follow the ring road above the village towards the pine forest.

Clean medium-to-large holds, long routes, views over the Oddoene Valley and the Gorropu canyon.

Vie selezionate
Ba'e Iscoriati8a
Toscanità7b
Overland6c+/7a+
See all 36 routes →
Monte Cusidore 07 / 13 Multipitch
Oliena/Dorgali · 45 min walk

Monte Cusidore

Long routes · 130 → 650 m · Max mandatory 6b

Drive to the white boulder "Preda 'e Lithu". 45 min on foot.

Imposing walls, outstanding climbing quality. Maximum mandatory grade 6b on all routes.

Vie principali
Spigolo NW5a650 m
La Sguercia7b260 m
Cuore di Pietra6b370 m
See all routes →
Gole di Gorropu 08 / 13 Big Wall
Dorgali → Oddoene Valley

Gole di Gorropu

Big wall · 170 → 600 m · up to 8b+

Park in front of the gate, cross the stream and continue.

Sardinia's most impressive walls. Hotel Supramonte is the route that made history here.

Vie storiche
Hotel Supramonte8b400 m
Isolitudine8b480 m
See all routes →
Valle di Lanaitto 09 / 13 Valle
Oliena → Su Gologone

Valle di Lanaitto

Sectors: Gurruttone · Silvano · Sa Oche · 5c → 7b+

From Oliena, follow signs for Su Gologone.

The arid valley of drips. Sa Oche stays cool all year round.

Routes in the Silvano Sector
Sempre Dritti per Siurana7b
Bombe Cristiane su Beirut6b
Vedi tutte le vie →
Monte Oddeu 10 / 13 Multipitch
Dorgali → Oddoene Valley

Monte Oddeu

12 multi-pitch routes · 160 → 300 m · 6a+ → 7b+

Park in front of the grey slabs, 15 min walk.

Beautiful grey slabs, 12 accessible multi-pitch routes.

Vie principali
Nirvana7b300 m
Sale Grosso6c+255 m
See all 12 routes →
Oliena Monte Maccione 11 / 13 Sport
Oliena · Coop. ENIS

Oliena — Monte Maccione

Sectors: Centrale · Marantonio · 29+ routes · 5a → 8a/b

From Oliena, follow signs for Coop. ENIS.

Marantonio is another story: Sioux (8a) and Dammi l'Ebrezza dei Tendini (8a/b).

Vie selezionate
Sioux8a
Dammi l'Ebrezza dei Tendini8a/b
Via dei Bambini5a
See all 60+ routes →
Valle di Surtana 12 / 13 Vie Lunghe
Lanaitto or Oddoene

Valle di Surtana

6 long routes · 50 → 120 m · Max mandatory 6b

From the Silvano sector crossroads, take the road on the left.

Excellent, richly-featured limestone. A quiet, remote place.

Vie lunghe
Trans Surtana Express6b115 m
Heartbreak6a60 m
See all 6 routes →
Baunei Punta Plumare 13 / 13 Via mare
Baunei → Golgo → Codula di Sisine

Baunei — Punta Plumare

Long pillar routes · 300 → 500 m · Mandatory 6b+ → 7b+

From the Golgo well, follow the path down to the Codula di Sisine. Or arrive by dinghy.

The southern edge of the Golfo di Orosei hides pillars and walls of huge scale.

Vie principali
Fedeli alla Linea6c+500 m
Gli Infedeli Bastardi7b+300 m
Vedi tutte le vie → Raggiungi con gommone →
Before You Go

Practical Info

Seasons & Conditions

All year round — Caves and south-facing walls.
Spring and autumn — ideal season.
For sea-access crags, rent a dinghy.
Recommended guidebook: Sardinia Rock by Vigiani and Oviglia.
Boat Rental → More Experiences →

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