Cala Goloritzè

Sinfonia dei mulini a vento — Historic route, the first to conquer the Aguglia and the hardest normal route in Italy. It is not fully equipped: integrate with nuts and cams. Start at the lowest point of the NE face following a system of diagonal cracks, then the Y-shaped crack on the slab and finally an easier slab to the summit. Abseil down Sole Incantatore.

Spigolo Turchese — Fully bolted, the shortest way to the top of the monolith. The description covers the last two pitches, the ones normally climbed: a pitch of Il Mio Veleno up to the shoulder, the key pitch of Sinfonia on the arête, then the arête to a small overhang and the final slab. Abseil down Sole Incantatore.

Dolce stil novo — Fully equipped with stainless bolts. Interesting, varied climbing: wall, a powerful dihedral, a wall of diagonal blades, an athletic crack and the final arête. Less beautiful than Sole Incantatore but a good alternative. Abseil down the route.

Sole Incantatore — The best equipped route on the Aguglia, a little less exposed and hard than Il Mio Veleno but always on superb rock. Often technical climbing, belays on chains, and abseil even with a single 60 m rope. For the abseils use a 70 m rope or two 50 m ropes.

SN (6c/A0) — On the W face, yellow and overhanging: first a vertical wall, then overhangs still to be climbed free. Bolted route. Abseil, or link up with the next route.

Il soffio del baco — Start at the base of the W face, left of a small cave. Yellowish wall, traverse to a vague overhanging crack, then slabs to the top. Equipped with bolts and pitons: a few nuts are useful.

L'orsetto lavatore e il suo compare — Very hard but well protected, currently the technically hardest route on the Aguglia if climbed free. It climbs the right side of the W face: yellow overhangs, an obvious roof, then a wall of worked grey rock and a final slab. Only quickdraws and one 60 m rope are needed.

Was bleibt?! — Climbs the south arête of the Aguglia. Dangerous climbing, repeated very rarely, partially equipped with bolts: can be integrated with nuts and cams. Start from the col on the uphill side of the Aguglia.

Harry… pioggia di sangue — A fine route that takes a bold, elegant line up the impressive grey slate of the SE face. One of the hardest routes to the top but also one of the shortest and best bolted; the obligatory grade is however very selective. Start from the saddle.

Onda su onda — A pleasant route in a very panoramic position over the splendid Cala Goloritzè and the Aguglia, fully equipped with stainless bolts. From Cala Goloritzè, before going down to the beach, climb left towards some boulders and up a scree slope to the rocks under some large holm oaks (20 minutes from the base of the Aguglia).

The short routes (10–25 m) are on the wall above the cove. Freak out can no longer be climbed (broken bolts).

Itu Damagoni (Il Mio Veleno) — Fully bolted, recently re-equipped. Varied climbing on perfect rock and in remarkable exposure, one of the finest routes in Italy. Start on the E face, on a ledge at the base of a wide crack: chimney, slab with cracks, a hard bulge, blade and roof with big blades, then the arête on pockets to the summit. Abseil down Sole Incantatore.