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Oliena — Monte Maccione

5 sectors · 60+ routes · 5a → 8b

Access From Oliena climb up to the ring road ("istrada nova") following signs for the Coop. ENIS. Ten minutes on a winding concrete road.
Sectors Centrale, Marantonio, Placca Rossa, Tana dei Lupi, La Croce.
Watch out Some ageing bolts in the La Croce sector. Marantonio is another matter altogether: Sioux (8a) and Dammi l'Ebrezza dei Tendini (8a/b).

Centrale Sector

Drive up from Oliena to the Coop. ENIS hotel; the path starts behind the building, 5 minutes.

01Bianca📷 + photo6b
02Estremamente Facile📷 + photo7a/b
03Mucchio Selvaggio📷 + photo6avietato volare!
05Simpaty for the Devil📷 + photo7c
06Nero a Metà📷 + photo6b
07Panico Sopra l'Orlo📷 + photo6c+
08Pretta Sanna Corda📷 + photo6a/b
09Fessura del Divorzio📷 + photo5b
10Strega Bacheca📷 + photo6a+la più corteggiata
11Performance📷 + photo6b+
12Opera📷 + photo7a+lancio
Opera
Opera Photo by Lucio Occhipinti
13Flip Flop📷 + photo7a+
14Pole Position📷 + photo7c
15Dertzu Uzala📷 + photo7a+
16Sardus Pater📷 + photo7b+/c
17Le Grazie di Grazia📷 + photo6c
18Pisci Friscu in Supramonti📷 + photo6b
19S'Iscallatoiu📷 + photo6b
20Via dei Bambini📷 + photo5a
22E Kie Na Ca No📷 + photo6a
23Non Volarmi Via📷 + photo5c
24Sogno di una Farfalla📷 + photo6b
25Lazzari Felici📷 + photo7a+lancio
26Piccolo Puffo📷 + photo6b+
29Overdose di Calcare📷 + photo6b+placca liscia

Marantonio Sector

From the Centrale sector, carry on for 150 m and cross the scree.

01Imprinting📷 + photo7c+
02Dammi l'Ebrezza dei Tendini📷 + photo8a/b
04Carpe Diem📷 + photo?
05Sioux📷 + photo8aa sx: Titanic 7c/8a
07Sara Femmina?📷 + photo8a/b
08Speriamo che sia Femmina📷 + photo6blunga
09Ritmo Genesico📷 + photo7amultipitch2° lungh. 7a
10Simon Bolivar📷 + photo6a
Placca appoggiata
Placca appoggiata Photo by Lucio Occhipinti
12Magico Spettacolo📷 + photo6amultipitch2° lungh. 5c
13Dito de Or📷 + photo6b+
14Per un Pugno di Spit📷 + photo6a/bmultipitch2° lungh. 6b
15SN📷 + photo6a/b
16SN📷 + photo6c30 m

Further left, a cave project with 3 routes from 6b (good ones) to 7b (Australia, on the yellow rock).

Placca Rossa Sector

Past the hotel complex, go beyond the small statue of the Madonna, 400 m, first short rise on the left.

01SN📷 + photo6b+chiodatura vecchia
04Biancaneve📷 + photo6b
09La Banda del Cric📷 + photo6a+
11Becu📷 + photo6a
12Sa Mugra📷 + photo6b+
13Veranu📷 + photo6c
14New York Giants📷 + photo6b+
15Iverru📷 + photo6cbel bloccaggio
16Via le Dita dal Naso📷 + photo6a+
17Via la Bocca dalle Dita📷 + photo6b4 m
21Nun me Reggae 'Cchiu📷 + photo6b+30 m

Tana dei Lupi

On the way down from Placca Rossa.

La Croce Sector

Path just before the restaurant, where the guardrail ends. Check the bolts before committing.

Liberai Matteo📷 + photo6c
Settore la croce
Settore la croce Photo by Lucio Occhipinti
Barbagia Rock📷 + photo7b+

Routes from 5b to 7c. Behind the sector, high on the right, an isolated route on pockets, 6b+ (a little loose halfway up).

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When to go

Sun, shade and the best months for this crag.

Sun and exposureNo sun data for this crag yet: the bar below uses the average climate only.

Crag at a glance

RockLimestone
Altitude800 m a.s.l.
AspectW
Routes: 58up to 5c 6 6a–6c+ 37 7a and above 15Grades: the hardest of each route listed on the page.
WarningsSome old protection at the La Croce sector.
From where you are

Uses your location only now, only on your device.

GPS: 40.263582, 9.421475

      Nearby crags

      Best months

      Average climate and daylight

      JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
      High °C91013162127303026201511
      Low °C33479141717161175
      Rain mm815351365320131538714376
      Rainy days976562125758
      Sunrise7:437:156:346:446:065:516:046:327:027:327:077:37
      Sunset17:2017:5718:2820:0020:3020:5320:5020:1919:3118:4217:0516:56
      Daylight hours9,610,711,913,314,415,014,813,812,511,210,09,3

      Indicative: calculated from average temperatures and rainfall of the area, not a forecast. Sunrise and sunset: on the 15th of the month, at Cala Gonone.

      The information in this guide (names, grades, lengths, descriptions) may contain errors or be out of date: some routes have been visited in person, others are reported from guides and tips. Always check on the spot before climbing. Climbing is dangerous and is done at your own risk.

      Crag statistics

      Sunniest crags

      Ranking based only on the wall's aspect (south = more sun, north = less). It ignores shade from trees or rock; only crags with a known aspect are included.

      1. Budinetto (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      2. La Poltrona (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      3. Punta Giradili (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      4. Margheddie (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      5. Cala Fuili (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      6. Valle di Lanaitto (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      7. Ziu Martine (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      8. Preda Istampada (W/SW)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      9. Dorgali — Atha Ruja (W/SW)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      10. Oliena — Monte Maccione (W)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      11. I Tornanti (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      12. Cala Luna (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      13. Regno dei Cieli (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      14. Siniscola (W)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      15. Grotta di Biddiriscottai (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      16. Villaggio Gallico (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      17. Monte Oddeu (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      18. Posada (N)
        🌴 Summer crag: little sun, cooler

      The seasonal advice is inferred from the aspect only; it ignores wind, altitude and trees. Arrows show the direction the wall faces. See each crag's page for the best months.

      Where the grades concentrate

      Number of routes per grade band, from the guide's count (projects excluded).

      • up to 5c
      • 6a–6c+
      • 7a and above
      Most easy routes (up to 5c+)
      1. Cala Fuili — 31
      2. Budinetto — 14
      3. La Poltrona — 14
      4. Jerzu — 13
      5. Siniscola — 12
      Most mid-grade routes (6a–6c+)
      1. Isili — 114
      2. Jerzu — 111
      3. Dorgali — Atha Ruja — 64
      4. Cala Fuili — 55
      5. La Poltrona — 42
      Most hard routes (7a and above)
      1. Isili — 120
      2. Jerzu — 100
      3. Codula di Fuili — 59
      4. Strada per Cartoe — 28
      5. Siniscola — 27
      Full table by crag
      Crag≤5c+6a–6c+7a+Total
      Baunei — Punta Plumare0112
      Bruncu Nieddu314522
      Budinetto148022
      Cala Fuili315526112
      Cala Goloritzè112720
      Cala Luna3202548
      Codula di Fuili2355996
      Dorgali — Atha Ruja11641489
      Gole di Gorropu14611
      Grotta di Biddiriscottai6352263
      Grotta Millennium0152439
      I Tornanti1351551
      Isili9114120243
      Jerzu13111100224
      La Poltrona1442662
      Margheddie316221
      Monte Bardia0516
      Monte Cusidore424937
      Monte Oddeu027835
      Oliena — Monte Maccione6371558
      Parete del Donneneittu05813
      Posada88117
      Preda Istampada310316
      Punta Giradili0178
      Regno dei Cieli05914
      Siniscola12342773
      Strada per Cartoe1312860
      Ulassai281323
      Ussassai15612
      Valle di Lanaitto9321556
      Valle di Surtana0707
      Villaggio Gallico211720
      Ziu Martine0156
      Grip and conditions today

      Rough estimate from weather data (Open-Meteo) at the crag's location, not a measurement on the rock. It uses air humidity, rain in the last 48 hours and temperature. Sectors have no coordinates of their own: the value applies to the whole crag. Always check the rock on site.

        Worth discovering Hiking Walking to Cala Goloritzè and Cala Mariolu from Golgo Trails from the Golgo plateau (Baunei) to Cala Goloritzè, about 1.5 hours, and Cala Mariolu, about 6 hours there and back. Discover →
        Something to take home Take the rock home

        Climbing, trekking and canyoning guides to Sardinia, and photography books about the island. Bought on eBay, not here.

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        Worth packing For the rock and the trail

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        Black Diamond Zone LV Low Volume Women’s Climbing Shoes UK 7…

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        Rock Climbing Harness Half Body Safety Belt Outdoor Aerial R…

        16,49 GBP

        SAFETY HELMET,SCAFFOLDING,CLIMBING HELMET,WORK,HARD HAT,SITE

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        Black Diamond Repo Rock Climbing Chalk Bag Small/Medium Sky …

        12,00 GBP

        Berghaus Freeflow 30+6 Rucksack/Backpack with Raincover -min…

        37,10 GBP

        1-2PCS Telescopic Anti-Shock Extendable Trekking Poles Hikin…

        21,89 GBP

        Clothing

        Mountain Warehouse Kids Softshell Hiking Boots Ankle Lace-Up…

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        The North Face Women’s Grey Softshell Full Zip Jacket Logo S…

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        Unisex Mountain Warehouse Snow Trousers Hiking Waterproof Si…

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        Mens Merino Military Socks Long Thick Thermal Hiking Walking…

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