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Oliena — Monte Maccione

5 sectors · 60+ routes · 5a → 8b

Access From Oliena climb up to the ring road ("istrada nova") following signs for the Coop. ENIS. Ten minutes on a winding concrete road.
Sectors Centrale, Marantonio, Placca Rossa, Tana dei Lupi, La Croce.
Watch out Some ageing bolts in the La Croce sector. Marantonio is another matter altogether: Sioux (8a) and Dammi l'Ebrezza dei Tendini (8a/b).

Centrale Sector

Drive up from Oliena to the Coop. ENIS hotel; the path starts behind the building, 5 minutes.

01Bianca6b
02Estremamente Facile7a/b
03Mucchio Selvaggio6avietato volare!
04SN
05Simpaty for the Devil7c
06Nero a Metà6b
07Panico Sopra l'Orlo6c+
08Pretta Sanna Corda6a/b
09Fessura del Divorzio5b
10Strega Bacheca6a+la più corteggiata
11Performance6b+
12Opera7a+lancio
13Flip Flop7a+
14Pole Position7c
15Dertzu Uzala7a+
16Sardus Pater7b+/c
17Le Grazie di Grazia6c
18Pisci Friscu in Supramonti6b
19S'Iscallatoiu6b
20Via dei Bambini5a
21SN5c
22E Kie Na Ca No6a
23Non Volarmi Via5c
24Sogno di una Farfalla6b
25Lazzari Felici7a+lancio
26Piccolo Puffo6b+
27SN6a
28SN5b
29Overdose di Calcare6b+placca liscia

Marantonio Sector

From the Centrale sector, carry on for 150 m and cross the scree.

01Imprinting7c+
02Dammi l'Ebrezza dei Tendini8a/b
03SN6c
04Carpe Diem?
05Sioux8aa sx: Titanic 7c/8a
07Sara Femmina?8a/b
08Speriamo che sia Femmina6blunga
09Ritmo Genesico7a2° lungh. 7a
10Simon Bolivar6a
11SN6a
12Magico Spettacolo6a2° lungh. 5c
13Dito de Or6b+
14Per un Pugno di Spit6a/b2° lungh. 6b
15SN6a/b
16SN6c30 m
17SN6a

Further left, a cave project with 3 routes from 6b (good ones) to 7b (Australia, on the yellow rock).

Placca Rossa Sector

Past the hotel complex, go beyond the small statue of the Madonna, 400 m, first short rise on the left.

01SN6b+chiodatura vecchia
04Biancaneve6b
09La Banda del Cric6a+
11Becu6a
12Sa Mugra6b+
13Veranu6c
14New York Giants6b+
15Iverru6cbel bloccaggio
16Via le Dita dal Naso6a+
17Via la Bocca dalle Dita6b4 m
21Nun me Reggae 'Cchiu6b+30 m

Tana dei Lupi

On the way down from Placca Rossa.

04La Tana dei Lupi7c/8a

La Croce Sector

Path just before the restaurant, where the guardrail ends. Check the bolts before committing.

Liberai Matteo6c
Barbagia Rock7b+

Routes from 5b to 7c. Behind the sector, high on the right, an isolated route on pockets, 6b+ (a little loose halfway up).

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Further reading

Take the rock home

Climbing, trekking and canyoning guides to Sardinia, and photography books about the island. Bought on eBay, not here.

C1910 M. OVIGLIA PIETRA DI LUNA GUIDA ALLA ARRAMPICATA IN SARDEGNA 199…

C1910 M. OVIGLIA PIETRA DI LUNA GUIDA ALLA ARRAMPICATA IN SARDEGNA 1991

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Bouldering in Sardinia Guidebook and Topo

Bouldering in Sardinia Guidebook and Topo

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Bavella (Sardinia) Rock Climbing Guidebook and Topo

Bavella (Sardinia) Rock Climbing Guidebook and Topo

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Sardinia Walking Guide: 37 long and short walks with... - Stieglitz, A…

Sardinia Walking Guide: 37 long and short walks with... - Stieglitz, Andreas

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Rough Guides Sardinia: Travel Guide with ---- by Rough Guide... - 9781…

Rough Guides Sardinia: Travel Guide with ---- by Rough Guide... - 9781835292242

9,96 GBP

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landscape photography books

landscape photography books

10,80 GBP

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