Jerzu

Il Castello · Danze Verticali · Palazzo d'Inverno · Il Palazzetto · L'Isola del Tesoro · 216 routes · 4c → 8b

Access Il Castello: Jerzu–Perdasdefogu road, park halfway along the wall (pylons at its base), a few minutes. Danze Verticali: path from the black-and-white striped sign on the bend. Palazzo d'Inverno: park after about 2 km right below the crag, small paths up to the dirt track, 10 min; Il Palazzetto is just above. Isola del Tesoro: from a clearing behind Palazzo d'Inverno, 10 min on foot, or 15 min from Palazzo d'Inverno along the path.

Note The Palazzetto routes are short (7 m) and the bolting of two of them is unchecked. Several routes are still projects.

Style Grey limestone, often with pockets and small edges. Il Castello (Punta Funtana Piccinna) faces NW, is vertical, with many pillars.

Il Castello (Punta Funtana Piccinna)

01Ogni inizio contiene una magia📷 + photo7b, 7a50 m

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02Tutti gli uomini sono mortali📷 + photo7a+25 m

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03After dark📷 + photo7c+25 m

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04After eight📷 + photo8a30 m

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05Gatto di piombo📷 + photo7a30 m

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06Un soldo per i tuoi pensieri📷 + photo7b30 m

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07Il mago della pioggia📷 + photo7b+25 m

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08Il sangue degli altri📷 + photo7c+20 m

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09A scuola dallo stregone📷 + photo6c+25 m

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10Eccesso di zelo📷 + photo7a+25 m

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11Brutta📷 + photo5c12 m

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12Suinalto📷 + photo5c12 m

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13Riposa in pace📷 + photo5b12 m

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14I classici di Walt Disney📷 + photo6b+15 m

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15Sogno a colori📷 + photo6c15 m

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16Mortadella📷 + photo6b12 m

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17A different you📷 + photo7a20 m

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18Cassa disintegrazione📷 + photo6b/c20 m

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19L'ultimo train📷 + photo6b+20 m

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20Paradisi musulmani📷 + photo6b20 m

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21Frenetic-duo📷 + photo6b+15 m

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22Freddo acciaio📷 + photo6b15 m

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23Retrovirus📷 + photo7b12 m

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24Cruccocrux📷 + photo7b12 m

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25Il piccolo cosacco📷 + photo6c+22 m

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26Scusate il ritardo📷 + photo7a+25 m

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27Il muro del pianto📷 + photo6c+20 m

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28Pianti e patimenti📷 + photo6b+, 6b50 m

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29Streghe📷 + photo6c20 m

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30La notte dei maghi📷 + photo6c+20 m

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31Altri tempi📷 + photo6b22 m

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32Jerzu Maria📷 + photo6c+15 m

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33Boulder side📷 + photo7a+22 m

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34Nuove frontiere📷 + photo6b22 m

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35Easy📷 + photo5c20 m

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36Istamina📷 + photo6b+20 m

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37'Ninetto 'e Ninetta📷 + photo5c20 m

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38Atletico Madrid📷 + photo6a+20 m

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39Fix📷 + photo6a20 m

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40Baballotto📷 + photo6b+20 m

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41Zenith📷 + photo7b+20 m

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42Effetti personali📷 + photo7b20 m

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43Effetti speciali📷 + photo7b20 m

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44Favola ribelle📷 + photo6a+20 m

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45Il vagabondo📷 + photo5c+20 m

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46Pannello monello📷 + photo6b+20 m

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47Marcos📷 + photo6a+20 m

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48Stalker📷 + photo6b+20 m

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49Superstalker📷 + photo6c20 m

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50Lo zio di nessuno📷 + photo6c+15 m

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51Nano P📷 + photo6c+15 m

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52Citrosodina📷 + photo4c15 m

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53C'est class!📷 + photo7c?10 m

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54Cuore in corto📷 + photo6b15 m

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55Bonsai📷 + photo6b+10 m

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56Ghirigori satanici📷 + photo6c20 m

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57Lothar📷 + photo7c+12 m

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Danze Verticali

01Il buio oltre la siepe📷 + photo6a12 m

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02Culurgiones da viaggio📷 + photo5c12 m

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03Elefantino di granito📷 + photo5b12 m

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04Maga Magò📷 + photo6a12 m

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05La botte piena📷 + photo6b12 m

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06La moglie ubriaca📷 + photo6a+12 m

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07Superselvaggio📷 + photo7a+15 m

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08Supermouse📷 + photo6c+15 m

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09Superpirola📷 + photo7a+15 m

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10Supergrilla Camilla📷 + photo6c15 m

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11Superpedro rider📷 + photo6b+15 m

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12Le cattive compagnie📷 + photo6b+40 m

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Palazzo d'Inverno

01Seppiette📷 + photo6b+25 m

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02Broccoletti📷 + photo6a+25 m

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03Nouvelle cuisine📷 + photo6c20 m

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04Viaggio nell'oblio📷 + photo7b+15 m

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05Il pirata a due ruote📷 + photo6b20 m

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06Chiacchere📷 + photo6b+12 m

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07Regalo di Natale📷 + photo6c12 m

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08Pentothal📷 + photo8a25 m

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09L'artiglio del diavolo📷 + photo7c25 m

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10Le dita di Dio📷 + photo8b25 m

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11Onda vital📷 + photo8a35 m

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12Lo zio di Brookleen📷 + photo7a+35 m

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13Stravinsky📷 + photo6c30 m

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14Shostakovic📷 + photo6c+30 m

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15Ciajkovsky📷 + photo6c30 m

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16Mussorgsky📷 + photo6c30 m

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17Chagall📷 + photo6b/c30 m

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18Faccixedda📷 + photo6c30 m

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19Cindy📷 + photo6a+30 m

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20Demenza senile📷 + photo6b+20 m

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21Brutti caini📷 + photo6b20 m

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22Ferox📷 + photoprogetto20 m

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23Astro nascente📷 + photo7b20 m

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24Death metal📷 + photo7a15 m

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25Palle quadre📷 + photo7a+17 m

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26Delitto perfetto📷 + photo7b+17 m

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27Okuto📷 + photoprogetto25 m

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28Acqua in bocca📷 + photo6c+22 m

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29Sesso & amore📷 + photo7a+22 m

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30Summer on a solitary cliff📷 + photo7a/7a+15 m

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31Insonnia📷 + photo7b15 m

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32Baba Yaga📷 + photo7b+15 m

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33Prospettiva Newsky📷 + photo6c20 m

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34Valzer triste📷 + photo7b+20 m

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35Manifesto📷 + photo8a22 m

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36Penguin café📷 + photo7b+22 m

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37Ha da venì baffone📷 + photo7a25 m

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38Macchillotta📷 + photo7a+15 m

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39Lezioni di piano📷 + photo7a+25 m

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40Conversazione platonica📷 + photo7a25 m

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41Nano ghiacciato📷 + photo7a25 m

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42Balalajka📷 + photo7a+20 m

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43L'albero della vita📷 + photo6b+20 m

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44Rubacuori📷 + photo7a20 m

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45Lo zoo di Jerzu📷 + photo7a/7a+20 m

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46Moby Dick📷 + photo7a+25 m

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47Vecchio pietrone📷 + photo6c25 m

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48Prima della pioggia📷 + photo7a+25 m

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49Corvo bianco📷 + photo6c+/7a30 m

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50Caccia alle streghe📷 + photo7b30 m

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51Stella della sera📷 + photo7b+30 m

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52Black Jack📷 + photo7c15 m

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53Riflessi📷 + photo8?25 m

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54Trasparenza📷 + photo7c+20 m

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55Skiantos📷 + photo7b20 m

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56Sard rock📷 + photo7a+20 m

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57Fermo biologico📷 + photo8?20 m

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58Contorsioni mentali📷 + photo7c/7c+15 m

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59Kalk crack📷 + photo6b15 m

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60Lavori forzati📷 + photo6c+25 m

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61Codice segreto📷 + photo8a20 m

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62Requiem📷 + photo7c20 m

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63Egmond📷 + photo7a20 m

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64Sint crack📷 + photo6b+20 m

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65Yellow jacket📷 + photo7a20 m

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66Coma profondo📷 + photo6b+20 m

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67Ziu Peppinu📷 + photo6a20 m

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68La sballona📷 + photo7a25 m

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69Serra sa siberia📷 + photo7a+25 m

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70Arzia dimoniu📷 + photo7a25 m

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71La via del dragone📷 + photo7a+25 m

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72Brutto naione📷 + photo6b/c15 m

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73Pamir📷 + photo8a15 m

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74Syncro superstar📷 + photo7b+15 m

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75Ratacea📷 + photo6b+15 m

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📷 + photo of the sector

Il Palazzetto

01Puresciori📷 + photoprogetto7 m

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02Giovanna Mushona📷 + photo7b7 m

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03Nottambula📷 + photo7c7 m

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04Mi so strac📷 + photo8a7 m

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05Extravagario📷 + photoprogetto7 m

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06Miserere📷 + photo8a7 m

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07Per Güllich📷 + photoprogetto7 m

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08Viva Cuba📷 + photo7b7 m

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09Sammarcanda📷 + photo7a+7 m

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📷 + photo of the sector

L'Isola del Tesoro

01Dietro le quinte📷 + photo6b/c15 m

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02Piccoli sogni📷 + photo6c+/7a15 m

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03La via del sentimento📷 + photo7a+15 m

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04Leggende metropolitane📷 + photo6a+15 m

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05Mercanti in fiera📷 + photo6b+15 m

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06Rosa pedra📷 + photo6c20 m

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07Cristalli liquidi📷 + photo6c+25 m

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08Su passu torrau📷 + photo6a/b15 m

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09Ci vuole un fisico bestiale📷 + photo7b+15 m

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10La via del pensiero📷 + photo7b15 m

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11Miss Pomodoro e succo d'orgasmo📷 + photo7a+12 m

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12Il riposo del vento📷 + photo7a12 m

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13A muso duro📷 + photo6c+20 m

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14Simone larva📷 + photo6b+20 m

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15Il minotauro📷 + photo6b+20 m

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16Rabbia dall'ovest📷 + photo6c15 m

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17Arboring📷 + photo6a20 m

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18Nostalgia📷 + photo6c+20 m

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19Frenesia📷 + photo6b+20 m

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20Persiana Jones e le tapparelle maled.📷 + photo6c+25 m

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21Magik rock📷 + photo6c+25 m

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22Pigs on the wind📷 + photo6b+25 m

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23Patchwork📷 + photo7a25 m

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24Fuori dimensione📷 + photo7a+25 m

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25Nuova dimensione📷 + photo7c+35 m

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26Luna nuova📷 + photo7b35 m

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27Il fachiro📷 + photo6c+30 m

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28On line📷 + photo6b+25 m

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29@ (Chiocciolina)📷 + photo6c25 m

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30New Jerzu generation📷 + photo6b+25 m

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31Mary Poppins📷 + photo6b25 m

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32Alaska📷 + photo6b/c25 m

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33Occhio non vede piede non sale📷 + photo6a+25 m

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34Alcatraz📷 + photo6b25 m

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35Messaggi al veleno📷 + photo6b25 m

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36Le mezze verità📷 + photo6a+25 m

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37Acida📷 + photo7b25 m

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38New dada📷 + photo7c/7c+20 m

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39Land art📷 + photo7b+20 m

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40Contaminazioni📷 + photo7b+25 m

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41Pezzi di vetro📷 + photo7b25 m

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42L'ennesimo caffè📷 + photo6c+35 m

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43100 vie all'anno📷 + photo6c30 m

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44Messaggi subliminali📷 + photo6b30 m

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45Il paese dei tropici📷 + photo6b27 m

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46Elementare Watson!📷 + photo5b18 m

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47Class📷 + photo5c27 m

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48I misteri dell'etica📷 + photo6b+25 m

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49Sotto zero📷 + photo6c+18 m

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50Fortunadrago📷 + photo6b+18 m

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51Standing ovation📷 + photo6a+/6b+20 m

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52Scottature📷 + photo6b+20 m

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53Abrasioni📷 + photo6c+20 m

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54Ego sans trip📷 + photo6c15 m

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55Idrolitina📷 + photo6b+15 m

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56Magilla📷 + photo7a15 m

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57L'oracolo del sud📷 + photo7a+10 m

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58Stregatto📷 + photo5b12 m

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59Topo gigio📷 + photo5c15 m

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60Tempo da lupi📷 + photo6a+12 m

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61O ci se, o ci fai!!📷 + photo6c+12 m

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62Non tutti ce l'hanno📷 + photo7a+10 m

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63Synt📷 + photo7b+10 m

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📷 + photo of the sector

Jerzu 40

Una Vita Da Mediano📷 + photo7a

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Sa Conca Sindi Andara📷 + photo6c+

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Così Fan Tutti📷 + photo7a+

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Trance📷 + photo7b+

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Internos📷 + photo7b

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No Comment📷 + photo6c+

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La Castellana📷 + photo6c+

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Vecchi Ragni📷 + photo6a+

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Smacchiando Giaguari📷 + photo6b

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È Solo Un Cane📷 + photo6b+

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Sonno Senza Sogni📷 + photo7b+

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Work Now, Climb Later📷 + photo7a/7a+

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Strong Lady📷 + photo7b

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Endless📷 + photo7b

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Hey Hey My My📷 + photo7a+

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📷 + photo of the sector

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When to go

Sun, shade and the best months for this crag.

Sun and exposureNo sun data for this crag yet: the bar below uses the average climate only.

Crag at a glance

Approachfrom a few minutes to 15 minutes on foot, depending on the sector

RockExcellent grey limestone, with pockets and clean crimps

Altitude750 m a.s.l.

Routes: 224up to 5c 13 6a–6c+ 111 7a and above 100Grades: the hardest of each route listed on the page.

Open in Google Maps →

From where you are

Uses your location only now, only on your device.

GPS: 39.778902, 9.511367

Nearby crags

Best months

●● Very good
● Good, choose the time of day
○ Better avoided

Average climate and daylight

	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
High °C	9	10	13	16	21	27	30	30	26	20	15	11
Low °C	3	3	4	7	9	14	17	17	16	11	7	5
Rain mm	81	53	51	36	53	20	13	15	38	71	43	76
Rainy days	9	7	6	5	6	2	1	2	5	7	5	8
Sunrise	7:43	7:15	6:34	6:44	6:06	5:51	6:04	6:32	7:02	7:32	7:07	7:37
Sunset	17:20	17:57	18:28	20:00	20:30	20:53	20:50	20:19	19:31	18:42	17:05	16:56
Daylight hours	9,6	10,7	11,9	13,3	14,4	15,0	14,8	13,8	12,5	11,2	10,0	9,3

Indicative: calculated from average temperatures and rainfall of the area, not a forecast. Sunrise and sunset: on the 15th of the month, at Cala Gonone.

The information in this guide (names, grades, lengths, descriptions) may contain errors or be out of date: some routes have been visited in person, others are reported from guides and tips. Always check on the spot before climbing. Climbing is dangerous and is done at your own risk.

Crag statistics

Sunniest crags

Ranking based only on the wall's aspect (south = more sun, north = less). It ignores shade from trees or rock; only crags with a known aspect are included.

Budinetto (S/SW)
❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
La Poltrona (S/SW)
❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
Punta Giradili (S/SW)
❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
Margheddie (SE)
❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
Cala Fuili (SE)
❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
Valle di Lanaitto (SE)
❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
Ziu Martine (SE)
❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
Preda Istampada (W/SW)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
Dorgali — Atha Ruja (W/SW)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
Oliena — Monte Maccione (W)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
I Tornanti (E)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
Cala Luna (E)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
Regno dei Cieli (E)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
Siniscola (W)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
Grotta di Biddiriscottai (E)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
Villaggio Gallico (E)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
Monte Oddeu (E)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
Posada (N)
🌴 Summer crag: little sun, cooler

The seasonal advice is inferred from the aspect only; it ignores wind, altitude and trees. Arrows show the direction the wall faces. See each crag's page for the best months.

Where the grades concentrate

Number of routes per grade band, from the guide's count (projects excluded).

up to 5c
6a–6c+
7a and above

Most easy routes (up to 5c+)

Cala Fuili — 31
Budinetto — 14
La Poltrona — 14
Jerzu — 13
Siniscola — 12

Most mid-grade routes (6a–6c+)

Isili — 114
Jerzu — 111
Dorgali — Atha Ruja — 64
Cala Fuili — 55
La Poltrona — 42

Most hard routes (7a and above)

Isili — 120
Jerzu — 100
Codula di Fuili — 59
Strada per Cartoe — 28
Siniscola — 27

Full table by crag

Crag	≤5c+	6a–6c+	7a+	Total
Baunei — Punta Plumare	0	1	1	2
Bruncu Nieddu	3	14	5	22
Budinetto	14	8	0	22
Cala Fuili	31	55	26	112
Cala Goloritzè	1	12	7	20
Cala Luna	3	20	25	48
Codula di Fuili	2	35	59	96
Dorgali — Atha Ruja	11	64	14	89
Gole di Gorropu	1	4	6	11
Grotta di Biddiriscottai	6	35	22	63
Grotta Millennium	0	15	24	39
I Tornanti	1	35	15	51
Isili	9	114	120	243
Jerzu	13	111	100	224
La Poltrona	14	42	6	62
Margheddie	3	16	2	21
Monte Bardia	0	5	1	6
Monte Cusidore	4	24	9	37
Monte Oddeu	0	27	8	35
Oliena — Monte Maccione	6	37	15	58
Parete del Donneneittu	0	5	8	13
Posada	8	8	1	17
Preda Istampada	3	10	3	16
Punta Giradili	0	1	7	8
Regno dei Cieli	0	5	9	14
Siniscola	12	34	27	73
Strada per Cartoe	1	31	28	60
Ulassai	2	8	13	23
Ussassai	1	5	6	12
Valle di Lanaitto	9	32	15	56
Valle di Surtana	0	7	0	7
Villaggio Gallico	2	11	7	20
Ziu Martine	0	1	5	6

Grip and conditions today

Rough estimate from weather data (Open-Meteo) at the crag's location, not a measurement on the rock. It uses air humidity, rain in the last 48 hours and temperature. Sectors have no coordinates of their own: the value applies to the whole crag. Always check the rock on site.