Regno dei Cieli

Nel regno dei cieli — A very exposed, vertical route on rock that is sometimes not too solid, especially on the first pitch. A fine climb, perhaps currently the hardest of the Regno dei Cieli. The first pitch starts with a hard traverse to the right. The bolting of the last pitch is not consistent with the rest of the route. Descend with three 30 m abseils, bring some quickdraws.

Canne al vento — After reaching the first bolt on the rim, go back 10 m towards the SW and abseil (put a cord around a spike). A nice pitch with a characteristic roof with good pockets and a technical slab.

Plein air — Abseil from the first bolt with a chicken-head. A first 45 m abseil lands on a white ledge, a second one pulling to the right onto a ledge. A beautiful route on magnificent rock, somewhat uneven in difficulty. From the second belay you can exit onto the next route.

Mujeres au borde — A slab and grey wall of remarkable beauty. The crux is a small overhang above the first belay on small pockets. Abseil from a pulpit with a bolt and cord, just past the previous route.

Shiatsu — Just past the previous route and a little lower, in a small notch in the rim of the crag. A nice drop slab (6c) and then a very aesthetic grey arête on superb rock. The crux is before the arête.

Il senso della vita — A beautiful, very exposed route on magnificent rock, unfortunately equipped with by now rusty bolts. On the first pitch a hard move above the belay, then right on a beautiful drop slab to climb an almost overhanging wall. Return left, where you belay on a single bolt. Climb a smooth slab to the final little dihedral, a very fingery crux.

Lo stato delle cose — A grey wall with drops in the final part of the pitch, very nice.

Pace dei sensi — Beyond the routes described, the rim of the crag rises abruptly. Above a pulpit there is a large juniper trunk and below it a bolt with cord. A very aesthetic variation of the previous route, with a hard passage on the edge of a rounded arête.

Aguaplano — The least difficult route, recommended and not very exposed. Start from a ledge on a drop slab, then from the first belay traverse decisively right to take a strenuous overhanging dihedral that leads to the top.

Mézières — Past Aguaplano, abseil from a bolt right on the rim. A fine, hard, sustained route on an overhanging wall.

Un piede in paradiso — A very exposed route in the purest Verdon style, perfect rock and a great atmosphere. Fully bolted, with chains at the belays. Abseil from a resin-glued bolt, then two more very exposed abseils of 15 and 30 m. The first pitch is on a splendid slab, then a wall with a technical traverse exit; the second pitch is hard and sustained on a vague pillar of heavily worked rock; then an overhanging wall of incredible beauty and finally a grey slab up to the rim.

Armageddon — The book gives neither the grade nor the length.

Spleen — The longest route of the Regno dei Cieli: fine climbing on grey slabs, quite exposed. Bolts sometimes far apart. Abseil from a pulpit past the previous route and after a channel: 50 m ropes are useful, link the abseils with cords. A drop slab, an overhanging wall with concretions, a wall with a tricky little arête, a slab with very long bolts and a final wall on rounded holds.

Loco de amor — A beautiful, aesthetic route on a secondary arête just before the SE arête. Technical climbing on rock that is in places smooth, with bolts that are unfortunately not very safe but closer than on the other routes. A 50 m abseil on the arête, then you reach the arête (6a), climbed with a few hard metres (6c), the very aesthetic, athletic arête edge and an easy final little wall.