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Dorgali — Atha Ruja

36 routes · 5a → 8a · Clean crimps

Access From Dorgali, turn onto the ring road above the village, Pineta area.
Style Clean, medium to large crimps; fairly easy, long routes with a beautiful view. Grades from 4 to 8a.
Season Good in winter on sunny afternoons, and in the morning in summer.
The Noce Secca sector Up on the right, just after the tunnel heading towards Baunei. Clean edges and long routes, with the view opening up as you climb.
Noce Secca sector, Dorgali Routes on the Noce Secca sector

All the routes

Listed left to right. Further routes, not listed here, have been bolted by local climber Piero Fancello.

01Banana📷 + photo5b
02Renè📷 + photo6a
03Jack Pompadur📷 + photo6b+
04Greystoke📷 + photo5b
05Buon Anno Tristezza📷 + photo6c+
06Bibì📷 + photo6a+
07Sa Dirgana📷 + photo6c
08Radio Vardetta📷 + photo6c+
09Desan📷 + photo6c
10La Sindrome di Stendhal📷 + photo6c+
11Desideria📷 + photo6b+
12Il Grillo Parlante📷 + photo7b
13S'Ira'e'Deu📷 + photo7a
14La Nostra Vita📷 + photo7a+
15Paranoia📷 + photo6c+
16Ba'e Iscoriati📷 + photo8a
17Granghena📷 + photo6c
18Sconvolt📷 + photo6b+
19Astringhe a Culu📷 + photo6c
20L'Ombra delle Fanciulle📷 + photo6a+
21Il Regno della Miseria📷 + photo6b
22Clementin📷 + photo6a+
23La Ricetta della Felicità📷 + photo5cmultipitch2° lungh. 6b+
24O Animale📷 + photo7a+
25Apoteke📷 + photo6a+
26Toscanità📷 + photo7b
27Older📷 + photo7b+
28Overland📷 + photo6c+multipitch2° lungh. 7a+
29L'Operaio📷 + photo6c
30Aspettando il Sole📷 + photo6b
31Neffa📷 + photo6b+
32Ikebana📷 + photo6b+multipitch2° lungh. 6b+
33Po 'More Deu S'Iada📷 + photo7a
34Classica📷 + photo5achiodi
35Anche le Galline Volano📷 + photo5c
36Violet Man📷 + photo6c

S'Atta Ruja

Bu' ananas📷 + photo5a7 m
Balentìa📷 + photo6b+10 m
Maria Francesca📷 + photo6b10 m
Motosega📷 + photo5c10 m
Irmisidu📷 + photo6a+8 m
Scivola bella📷 + photo6b+10 m
Grazianeddu📷 + photo5c20 m
Bovoreddu📷 + photo6a+20 m
Zio Billy📷 + photo5c20 m
Bar Luciano📷 + photo6a15 m
Raffaella📷 + photo5c20 m
Boe Juke📷 + photo6b15 m
Ponente📷 + photo6a25 m
Fuimus📷 + photo6a+15 m
Est unu fracassu📷 + photo6b30 m
Vamos a bailar📷 + photo6a+15 m
Baila guapa loca📷 + photo6b15 m
Persone Curiose📷 + photo6a+20 m
Sine Ulla spes📷 + photo6c25 m
Luisa📷 + photo6b+20 m
Euforbia📷 + photo420 m
Dottor Sacu📷 + photo6b+25 m
No fachete a zirare sas palasas📷 + photo6b+25 m
Joker📷 + photo6b+25 m
Corazon espinado📷 + photo6c25 m
Forse Hotel📷 + photo7a+20 m
Nuovi equilibri📷 + photo6c20 m
No me cherio mudanda📷 + photo6c20 m
Rita lavora📷 + photo6a+20 m
Doddoi📷 + photo6a+20 m
Bastardo dentro📷 + photo6c20 m
Ester📷 + photo6c20 m
Cris Joan📷 + photo6a+15 m
Is clonis📷 + photo6b15 m
Umbras📷 + photo6b30 m
Su fratacasu📷 + photo6c30 m
Ultimo raggio di sole📷 + photo6a+25 m
A modo mio📷 + photo6b30 m
Ciao 2004📷 + photo6a35 m
Mandronìa📷 + photo6a30 m
L'imballatore di nuvole📷 + photo5c30 m
Il Volo📷 + photo6c+35 m
Est unu casinu📷 + photo6c+50 m
Lenee Marlin📷 + photo6c50 m
Il torinese📷 + photo7b20 m
Milingo📷 + photo6a+30 m
Io pattino history📷 + photo6c30 m
Morbido📷 + photo6c25 m
Phantom📷 + photo6c+20 m
Jennifer Paige📷 + photo7a25 m
Il crucco📷 + photo6c25 m
Smoke on the water📷 + photo7b35 m
Black sabbath📷 + photo7a30 m
Stairway to Heaven📷 + photo7b30 m
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Mountain guides

Guided climbs with a mountain guide

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When to go

Sun, shade and the best months for this crag.

Sun and exposureGood in winter on sunny afternoons, in summer in the morning.

Crag at a glance

RockLimestone, clean medium-large holds
Altitude500 m a.s.l.
AspectW / SW
Routes: 89up to 5c 11 6a–6c+ 64 7a and above 14Grades: the hardest of each route listed on the page.
From where you are

Uses your location only now, only on your device.

GPS: 40.288539, 9.594618

      Nearby crags

      Best months

      Average climate and daylight

      JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
      High °C91013162127303026201511
      Low °C33479141717161175
      Rain mm815351365320131538714376
      Rainy days976562125758
      Sunrise7:437:156:346:446:065:516:046:327:027:327:077:37
      Sunset17:2017:5718:2820:0020:3020:5320:5020:1919:3118:4217:0516:56
      Daylight hours9,610,711,913,314,415,014,813,812,511,210,09,3

      Indicative: calculated from average temperatures and rainfall of the area, not a forecast. Sunrise and sunset: on the 15th of the month, at Cala Gonone.

      The information in this guide (names, grades, lengths, descriptions) may contain errors or be out of date: some routes have been visited in person, others are reported from guides and tips. Always check on the spot before climbing. Climbing is dangerous and is done at your own risk.

      Crag statistics

      Sunniest crags

      Ranking based only on the wall's aspect (south = more sun, north = less). It ignores shade from trees or rock; only crags with a known aspect are included.

      1. Budinetto (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      2. La Poltrona (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      3. Punta Giradili (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      4. Margheddie (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      5. Cala Fuili (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      6. Valle di Lanaitto (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      7. Ziu Martine (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      8. Preda Istampada (W/SW)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      9. Dorgali — Atha Ruja (W/SW)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      10. Oliena — Monte Maccione (W)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      11. I Tornanti (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      12. Cala Luna (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      13. Regno dei Cieli (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      14. Siniscola (W)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      15. Grotta di Biddiriscottai (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      16. Villaggio Gallico (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      17. Monte Oddeu (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      18. Posada (N)
        🌴 Summer crag: little sun, cooler

      The seasonal advice is inferred from the aspect only; it ignores wind, altitude and trees. Arrows show the direction the wall faces. See each crag's page for the best months.

      Where the grades concentrate

      Number of routes per grade band, from the guide's count (projects excluded).

      • up to 5c
      • 6a–6c+
      • 7a and above
      Most easy routes (up to 5c+)
      1. Cala Fuili — 31
      2. Budinetto — 14
      3. La Poltrona — 14
      4. Jerzu — 13
      5. Siniscola — 12
      Most mid-grade routes (6a–6c+)
      1. Isili — 114
      2. Jerzu — 111
      3. Dorgali — Atha Ruja — 64
      4. Cala Fuili — 55
      5. La Poltrona — 42
      Most hard routes (7a and above)
      1. Isili — 120
      2. Jerzu — 100
      3. Codula di Fuili — 59
      4. Strada per Cartoe — 28
      5. Siniscola — 27
      Full table by crag
      Crag≤5c+6a–6c+7a+Total
      Baunei — Punta Plumare0112
      Bruncu Nieddu314522
      Budinetto148022
      Cala Fuili315526112
      Cala Goloritzè112720
      Cala Luna3202548
      Codula di Fuili2355996
      Dorgali — Atha Ruja11641489
      Gole di Gorropu14611
      Grotta di Biddiriscottai6352263
      Grotta Millennium0152439
      I Tornanti1351551
      Isili9114120243
      Jerzu13111100224
      La Poltrona1442662
      Margheddie316221
      Monte Bardia0516
      Monte Cusidore424937
      Monte Oddeu027835
      Oliena — Monte Maccione6371558
      Parete del Donneneittu05813
      Posada88117
      Preda Istampada310316
      Punta Giradili0178
      Regno dei Cieli05914
      Siniscola12342773
      Strada per Cartoe1312860
      Ulassai281323
      Ussassai15612
      Valle di Lanaitto9321556
      Valle di Surtana0707
      Villaggio Gallico211720
      Ziu Martine0156
      Grip and conditions today

      Rough estimate from weather data (Open-Meteo) at the crag's location, not a measurement on the rock. It uses air humidity, rain in the last 48 hours and temperature. Sectors have no coordinates of their own: the value applies to the whole crag. Always check the rock on site.

        Worth discovering Hiking Walking to Cala Goloritzè and Cala Mariolu from Golgo Trails from the Golgo plateau (Baunei) to Cala Goloritzè, about 1.5 hours, and Cala Mariolu, about 6 hours there and back. Discover →
        Something to take home Take the rock home

        Climbing, trekking and canyoning guides to Sardinia, and photography books about the island. Bought on eBay, not here.

        OVIGLIA -Pietra di Luna. Guida all'arrampicata sportiva in Sardegna. 1…

        OVIGLIA -Pietra di Luna. Guida all'arrampicata sportiva in Sardegna. 1995

        18,00 €

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        Pietra di luna. Sud Sardegna. Ediz. inglese - Oviglia Maurizio, Piras …

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        32,00 €

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        Libro Nuovo - Baunei Sportclimbing 2025  - Maurizio Oviglia Edizioni

        Libro Nuovo - Baunei Sportclimbing 2025 - Maurizio Oviglia Edizioni

        18,00 €

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        Bavella (Sardinia) Rock Climbing Guidebook and Topo

        Bavella (Sardinia) Rock Climbing Guidebook and Topo

        48,42 €

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        Libro Nuovo - Mario Verin / Giulia Castelli / Antonio Cabras - Selvagg…

        Libro Nuovo - Mario Verin / Giulia Castelli / Antonio Cabras - Selvaggio Blu Und

        24,00 €

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        Torrentismo in Sardegna von Conca, Corrado | Buch | Zustand gut

        Torrentismo in Sardegna von Conca, Corrado | Buch | Zustand gut

        14,22 €

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        N. 3 RIVISTE GRUPPO G. SPANO CAGLIARI 1985 1987 1988 SARDEGNA GROTTE S…

        N. 3 RIVISTE GRUPPO G. SPANO CAGLIARI 1985 1987 1988 SARDEGNA GROTTE SPELEOLOGIA

        10,80 €

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        Baunei. Grotta del Fico e dintorni. Le vie dell'acqua. I sentieri di u…

        Baunei. Grotta del Fico e dintorni. Le vie dell'acqua. I sentieri di un te...

        10,00 €

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        MONTAGNE PAESAGGI GENNARGENTU SARDEGNA LIBRO FOTOGRAFICO NUOVO FUORI C…

        MONTAGNE PAESAGGI GENNARGENTU SARDEGNA LIBRO FOTOGRAFICO NUOVO FUORI CATALOGO

        16,15 €

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        Baunei (Sardinia) Sport Climbing Guidebook and Topo

        Baunei (Sardinia) Sport Climbing Guidebook and Topo

        17,95 GBP

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        Sardinia Hiking Guide 2026 - Mountain Peaks, Hidden Vil - Paperback NE…

        Sardinia Hiking Guide 2026 - Mountain Peaks, Hidden Vil - Paperback NEW BENNETT.

        14,03 GBP

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        Sardinia Hiking Guide 2026 - Mountain Peaks, Hidden Vil - Paperback NE…

        Sardinia Hiking Guide 2026 - Mountain Peaks, Hidden Vil - Paperback NEW BENNETT.

        14,03 GBP

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        landscape photography books

        landscape photography books

        10,80 GBP

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        Worth packing For the rock and the trail

        Gear and clothing for climbing and trekking. Bought on eBay, not here.

        Gear

        Scarpa Veloce Women's Climbing Shoes UK Size 5

        52,70 GBP

        Full Body Climbing Harness For Children Under 30 Kg - Petzl …

        34,71 GBP

        Grivel Mutant Climbing Helmet White/Black S/M 48-58cm

        50,30 GBP

        Novelty Climbing Chalk Bag - Shark

        23,00 GBP

        Berghaus Freeflow 30+6 Rucksack/Backpack with Raincover -min…

        37,10 GBP

        1-2PCS Telescopic Anti-Shock Extendable Trekking Poles Hikin…

        24,98 GBP

        Clothing

        Hi-Tec Storm Expedition Sport Men's Navy Waterproof Hiking W…

        54,99 GBP

        RTX Softshell Jacket RX500 - Black

        15,00 GBP

        Mens Fleece Lined Trekking Trousers Water Resistant Walking …

        19,95 GBP

        Merino Wool Thermal Socks Men Women Thick Warm Winter Hiking…

        4,26 GBP

        Harnesses, helmets and shoes: new items only. Check the manufacturer's markings and instructions.

        Affiliate links: if you buy, Sea Desk earns a small commission and you pay the eBay price.

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