Parete del Donneneittu

Codula di Luna · 2 long routes · 250 m · 6c → 7b

Access SS 125 km 172.5: paved road into the Codula di Luna, about 10 km to Teletotes. Path along the valley floor, then a steep track to the sheepfold and a traverse left over the scree. About 25 min.

Note Demanding, sustained routes (H.L.F. is the hardest). On H.L.F. do not abseil from S3. On Angelo Assassino the last abseil is off-axis, on the edge of the cave.

Style Grey limestone. Fully bolted routes, widely spaced bolts. Sun after 1 pm. Best in spring and autumn.

The routes

01L'Angelo Assassino📷 + photoobl. 6c, max 7bmultipitch250 m, 8 pitches

⚠️ Report

02H.L.F.📷 + photoobl. 6c+, max 7bmultipitch250 m, 8 pitches

⚠️ Report

📷 + photo of the sector

Monte Donneneittu

Donneneunulitru📷 + photo6c+multipitch120 m, 4 pitches

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Via dell'unicorno📷 + photo6a+multipitch280 m, 6 pitches

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Macina neve📷 + photo7amultipitch270 m, 10 pitches

⚠️ Report

Mare Grigio📷 + photo8amultipitch240 m, 10 pitches

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Onda Azzurra📷 + photo8a+multipitch260 m, 9 pitches

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Amico fragile📷 + photo7c+ (7c+/8a)multipitch220 m, 8 pitches

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Linea blu📷 + photo7a+multipitch160 m, 5 pitches

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Punkabbestia📷 + photo7cmultipitch150 m, 5 pitches

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Debito formativo📷 + photo6b+multipitch110 m, 4 pitches

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Porceddu incantatore📷 + photo6bmultipitch140 m, 4 pitches

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Il sangue dei vinti📷 + photo6bmultipitch280 m, 8 pitches

⚠️ Report

📷 + photo of the sector

L'Angelo Assassino — S2. A magnificent grey line winding between the overhangs of a smooth, impressive wall, the most obvious and highest in the Codula di Luna. Sustained, demanding climbing on excellent drop-textured limestone. The first pitch is demanding and unusual: an almost horizontal traverse under an overhang on mediocre rock, but with closely spaced bolts. Descent by abseil. Gear: 15 quickdraws, 2 x 50 m ropes.

H.L.F. (Hard, Long & Free) — S3. Climbing on beautiful, extremely varied rock. Overall more demanding than L'Angelo Assassino, especially mentally, and just as beautiful. Exposed, delicate abseils. Abseil down the route, except the third, which is shifted to the left (facing the wall) onto a comfortable ledge. Warning: do not abseil from the third belay, you would end up in thin air. Gear: 12 quickdraws, 2 x 50 m ropes.

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When to go

Sun, shade and the best months for this crag.

Sun and exposureSun after 1 pm. Best in spring and autumn.

Crag at a glance

Approachabout 25 minutes on foot from Teletotes, where the road ends

RockExcellent grey limestone, from drop-textured walls to cracks

Routes: 13up to 5c 0 6a–6c+ 5 7a and above 8Grades: the hardest of each route listed on the page.

WarningsLong, serious routes: on H.L.F. do not abseil from the third belay.

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From where you are

Uses your location only now, only on your device.

GPS: 40.172924, 9.568814

Nearby crags

Best months

●● Very good
● Good, choose the time of day
○ Better avoided

Average climate and daylight

	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
High °C	9	10	13	16	21	27	30	30	26	20	15	11
Low °C	3	3	4	7	9	14	17	17	16	11	7	5
Rain mm	81	53	51	36	53	20	13	15	38	71	43	76
Rainy days	9	7	6	5	6	2	1	2	5	7	5	8
Sunrise	7:43	7:15	6:34	6:44	6:06	5:51	6:04	6:32	7:02	7:32	7:07	7:37
Sunset	17:20	17:57	18:28	20:00	20:30	20:53	20:50	20:19	19:31	18:42	17:05	16:56
Daylight hours	9,6	10,7	11,9	13,3	14,4	15,0	14,8	13,8	12,5	11,2	10,0	9,3

Indicative: calculated from average temperatures and rainfall of the area, not a forecast. Sunrise and sunset: on the 15th of the month, at Cala Gonone.

All the crags

The thirty-three climbing areas of the Gulf of Orosei and the Supramonte.Grouped by municipality, in alphabetical order.

Baunei

Dorgali

Isili

Isili

Jerzu

Jerzu

Oliena

The information in this guide (names, grades, lengths, descriptions) may contain errors or be out of date: some routes have been visited in person, others are reported from guides and tips. Always check on the spot before climbing. Climbing is dangerous and is done at your own risk.

Crag statistics

Sunniest crags

Ranking based only on the wall's aspect (south = more sun, north = less). It ignores shade from trees or rock; only crags with a known aspect are included.

Budinetto (S/SW)
❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
La Poltrona (S/SW)
❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
Punta Giradili (S/SW)
❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
Margheddie (SE)
❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
Cala Fuili (SE)
❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
Valle di Lanaitto (SE)
❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
Ziu Martine (SE)
❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
Preda Istampada (W/SW)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
Dorgali — Atha Ruja (W/SW)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
Oliena — Monte Maccione (W)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
I Tornanti (E)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
Cala Luna (E)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
Regno dei Cieli (E)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
Siniscola (W)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
Grotta di Biddiriscottai (E)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
Villaggio Gallico (E)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
Monte Oddeu (E)
🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
Posada (N)
🌴 Summer crag: little sun, cooler

The seasonal advice is inferred from the aspect only; it ignores wind, altitude and trees. Arrows show the direction the wall faces. See each crag's page for the best months.

Where the grades concentrate

Number of routes per grade band, from the guide's count (projects excluded).

up to 5c
6a–6c+
7a and above

Most easy routes (up to 5c+)

Cala Fuili — 31
Budinetto — 14
La Poltrona — 14
Jerzu — 13
Siniscola — 12

Most mid-grade routes (6a–6c+)

Isili — 114
Jerzu — 111
Dorgali — Atha Ruja — 64
Cala Fuili — 55
La Poltrona — 42

Most hard routes (7a and above)

Isili — 120
Jerzu — 100
Codula di Fuili — 59
Strada per Cartoe — 28
Siniscola — 27

Full table by crag

Crag	≤5c+	6a–6c+	7a+	Total
Baunei — Punta Plumare	0	1	1	2
Bruncu Nieddu	3	14	5	22
Budinetto	14	8	0	22
Cala Fuili	31	55	26	112
Cala Goloritzè	1	12	7	20
Cala Luna	3	20	25	48
Codula di Fuili	2	35	59	96
Dorgali — Atha Ruja	11	64	14	89
Gole di Gorropu	1	4	6	11
Grotta di Biddiriscottai	6	35	22	63
Grotta Millennium	0	15	24	39
I Tornanti	1	35	15	51
Isili	9	114	120	243
Jerzu	13	111	100	224
La Poltrona	14	42	6	62
Margheddie	3	16	2	21
Monte Bardia	0	5	1	6
Monte Cusidore	4	24	9	37
Monte Oddeu	0	27	8	35
Oliena — Monte Maccione	6	37	15	58
Parete del Donneneittu	0	5	8	13
Posada	8	8	1	17
Preda Istampada	3	10	3	16
Punta Giradili	0	1	7	8
Regno dei Cieli	0	5	9	14
Siniscola	12	34	27	73
Strada per Cartoe	1	31	28	60
Ulassai	2	8	13	23
Ussassai	1	5	6	12
Valle di Lanaitto	9	32	15	56
Valle di Surtana	0	7	0	7
Villaggio Gallico	2	11	7	20
Ziu Martine	0	1	5	6

Grip and conditions today

Rough estimate from weather data (Open-Meteo) at the crag's location, not a measurement on the rock. It uses air humidity, rain in the last 48 hours and temperature. Sectors have no coordinates of their own: the value applies to the whole crag. Always check the rock on site.