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Villaggio Gallico

Baunei · 20 routes · single-pitch · 5b → 7b

Access From Tortolì on the SS 125 to just before Baunei; about 1 km earlier, turn right onto the road to Pedra Longa. Park 300 m after the road starts to descend: 5 min path.
Note East-facing, sun only in the morning: on hot days choose the afternoon shade, in winter the sunny hours.
Style Grey limestone. Stainless-steel bolting (glue-in bolts and fix), closely spaced. Season: all year.

The routes

01Edapietrix📷 + photo7a25 m
02Turnebis📷 + photo6c+20 m
03Panoramix📷 + photo6c/6c+15 m
04Dukakis📷 + photo7a+30 m
05Villaggio Gallico📷 + photo7a+30 m
06Mimmina📷 + photo7b30 m
07Minimix📷 + photo6a15 m
08Dugagufix📷 + photo7a30 m
09Miraculix📷 + photo5c15 m
10Idefix📷 + photo5b15 m
11Matusalemmix📷 + photo6b+35 m
12Frolix📷 + photo6a+/6b30 m
13Beltorax📷 + photo6b30 m
14Fon Klappen📷 + photo6b+30 m
15Caio Bonus📷 + photo5c+20 m
16Caio Ottuso📷 + photo6a+20 m
17Trepetix📷 + photo7a+20 m
18Paindepix📷 + photo6c20 m
19Primafix📷 + photo6c+15 m
20Moviglifix📷 + photo7a35 m
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When to go

Sun, shade and the best months for this crag.

Sun and exposureSun only in the morning. In the heat better in the afternoon, in winter in the morning.

Crag at a glance

Approachabout 5 minutes on foot from the parking
RockExcellent grey limestone with drops and small blades
AspectE
Routes: 20up to 5c 2 6a–6c+ 11 7a and above 7Grades: the hardest of each route listed on the page.
WarningsClose, stainless bolting: suitable for beginners too.
From where you are

Uses your location only now, only on your device.

GPS: 40.022193, 9.688356

      Nearby crags

      Best months

      Average climate and daylight

      JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
      High °C91013162127303026201511
      Low °C33479141717161175
      Rain mm815351365320131538714376
      Rainy days976562125758
      Sunrise7:437:156:346:446:065:516:046:327:027:327:077:37
      Sunset17:2017:5718:2820:0020:3020:5320:5020:1919:3118:4217:0516:56
      Daylight hours9,610,711,913,314,415,014,813,812,511,210,09,3

      Indicative: calculated from average temperatures and rainfall of the area, not a forecast. Sunrise and sunset: on the 15th of the month, at Cala Gonone.

      The information in this guide (names, grades, lengths, descriptions) may contain errors or be out of date: some routes have been visited in person, others are reported from guides and tips. Always check on the spot before climbing. Climbing is dangerous and is done at your own risk.

      Crag statistics

      Sunniest crags

      Ranking based only on the wall's aspect (south = more sun, north = less). It ignores shade from trees or rock; only crags with a known aspect are included.

      1. Budinetto (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      2. La Poltrona (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      3. Punta Giradili (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      4. Margheddie (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      5. Cala Fuili (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      6. Valle di Lanaitto (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      7. Ziu Martine (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      8. Preda Istampada (W/SW)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      9. Dorgali — Atha Ruja (W/SW)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      10. Oliena — Monte Maccione (W)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      11. I Tornanti (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      12. Cala Luna (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      13. Regno dei Cieli (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      14. Siniscola (W)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      15. Grotta di Biddiriscottai (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      16. Villaggio Gallico (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      17. Monte Oddeu (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      18. Posada (N)
        🌴 Summer crag: little sun, cooler

      The seasonal advice is inferred from the aspect only; it ignores wind, altitude and trees. Arrows show the direction the wall faces. See each crag's page for the best months.

      Where the grades concentrate

      Number of routes per grade band, from the guide's count (projects excluded).

      • up to 5c
      • 6a–6c+
      • 7a and above
      Most easy routes (up to 5c+)
      1. Cala Fuili — 31
      2. Budinetto — 14
      3. La Poltrona — 14
      4. Jerzu — 13
      5. Siniscola — 12
      Most mid-grade routes (6a–6c+)
      1. Isili — 114
      2. Jerzu — 111
      3. Dorgali — Atha Ruja — 64
      4. Cala Fuili — 55
      5. La Poltrona — 42
      Most hard routes (7a and above)
      1. Isili — 120
      2. Jerzu — 100
      3. Codula di Fuili — 59
      4. Strada per Cartoe — 28
      5. Siniscola — 27
      Full table by crag
      Crag≤5c+6a–6c+7a+Total
      Baunei — Punta Plumare0112
      Bruncu Nieddu314522
      Budinetto148022
      Cala Fuili315526112
      Cala Goloritzè112720
      Cala Luna3202548
      Codula di Fuili2355996
      Dorgali — Atha Ruja11641489
      Gole di Gorropu14611
      Grotta di Biddiriscottai6352263
      Grotta Millennium0152439
      I Tornanti1351551
      Isili9114120243
      Jerzu13111100224
      La Poltrona1442662
      Margheddie316221
      Monte Bardia0516
      Monte Cusidore424937
      Monte Oddeu027835
      Oliena — Monte Maccione6371558
      Parete del Donneneittu05813
      Posada88117
      Preda Istampada310316
      Punta Giradili0178
      Regno dei Cieli05914
      Siniscola12342773
      Strada per Cartoe1312860
      Ulassai281323
      Ussassai15612
      Valle di Lanaitto9321556
      Valle di Surtana0707
      Villaggio Gallico211720
      Ziu Martine0156
      Grip and conditions today

      Rough estimate from weather data (Open-Meteo) at the crag's location, not a measurement on the rock. It uses air humidity, rain in the last 48 hours and temperature. Sectors have no coordinates of their own: the value applies to the whole crag. Always check the rock on site.

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