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Punta Giradili

Baunei · 6 long routes · up to 390 m · 6b+ → 7a obligatory

Access From Baunei follow the signs for Golgo, then 'Monte Ginnirco' and the road to Ovile Duspiggius (park at the gate). Faint path along the wall to the foot of the pillar: about 30 min.
Note Long, demanding routes with serious run-outs: choose settled days; a helmet is recommended. Walk-off descent in trainers towards the dirt road above the sheepfold. Best in spring and autumn (wind in winter, heat in summer).
Style Grey and yellow limestone, with small pockets. Widely spaced fix bolts. Sun from 11 am.

The routes

01Angelo Blu📷 + photoobl. 7a, max 7bmultipitch380 m, 9 pitches
02Wolfgang Güllich📷 + photoobl. 6b, max 7amultipitch390 m, 13 pitches
03Sette anni di solitudine📷 + photoobl. 6b+, max 6c+multipitch390 m, 13 pitches
04L'intelligenza emotiva📷 + photoobl. 7a, max 8amultipitch260 m, 9 pitches
05Mediterraneo📷 + photoobl. 6b, max 7a+multipitch240 m, 8 pitches
06Il senso dell'erotismo nel corso del terzo millennio📷 + photoobl. 6c+, max 7amultipitch90 m, 3 pitches

Punta Giradili

Piola Motto📷 + photo7a/6c+/6b+/6c/6c+/6cmultipitch6 pitches
Mezzogiorno di Fuoco📷 + photo8b max, 7c obbl.multipitch270 m
Angelo Blu — A very committing route that follows the edge of the pillar, to the right of the Gullich. Bolting is always spaced, the obligatory moves are high and the rock is not always reliable: perhaps the most committing route on Punta Giradili, even if far less hard than Intelligenza Emotiva. The fourth pitch is one of the finest in the Supramonte. Fully bolted with 8 mm stainless fixes, but a few cams are useful. Some pitches are very long and the rope can drag a lot. Descent on foot. Bring 10 quickdraws and 2 x 60 m ropes.

Wolfgang Güllich — Follows the edge of the pillar on a grand line. Even though it is fully bolted, the commitment is very high because of the continuity of the difficulties, the exposure and the uncomfortable belays. Bolts fairly close, except on the upper pitches. Excellent rock everywhere. Bring 16 quickdraws and 2 x 50 m ropes. Descent on foot along the ridge is recommended, or by abseil.

Sette anni di solitudine — A fine route in the centre of the great wall, with some splendid pitches, in particular the 70 m dihedral. Probably the finest on the wall, not the hardest, but with very continuous and sustained difficulties along its whole length. Fully bolted, belays generally comfortable. Bring 10 quickdraws and 2 x 50 m ropes. Descent by abseil is possible but not recommended.

L'intelligenza emotiva — A great route in the centre of the west face, the most overhanging one: it winds between big overhangs, crossing them at their weakest point, and the central pitches are completely sheltered from the rain. Hard obligatory on almost all pitches, technical difficulty and exceptional exposure make it one of the hardest routes on the island. Fully bolted. Bring 12 quickdraws and 2 x 50 m ropes or one 70 m. The abseil descent is impressive and needs care: walking down is better. Climbed free and onsight by Rolando Larcher.

Mediterraneo — An elegant route that winds between the big overhangs on the left side of the wall, on a strip of grey limestone of exceptional quality, very exposed and beside a gigantic cave. Difficulties are always continuous and the belays are not very comfortable. The crux pitch is in clear overhang, so abseils are not recommended: better to traverse on foot towards the sheepfold (45 minutes). The other pitches are on slab, vertical at most. Fully bolted. Bring 13 quickdraws and 2 x 50 m ropes.

Il senso dell'erotismo nel corso del terzo millennio — A fine, very continuous route, unfortunately equipped with clipping positions often in the wrong places, so the difficulty is increased and some stretches become dangerous in a fall. Excellent rock, except the last pitch, which has not been cleaned well. Start from the Giradili Ledge, abseiling from two bolts on the rim. Bring a single 70 m rope.
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When to go

Sun, shade and the best months for this crag.

Sun and exposureSun from 11 am onwards. Best in spring and autumn.

Crag at a glance

Approachabout 30 minutes on foot from the Ovile Duspiggius
RockGrey and yellow limestone, heavily worked with small drops, often sharp
Altitude400 m a.s.l.
AspectS / SW
Routes: 8up to 5c 0 6a–6c+ 1 7a and above 7Grades: the hardest of each route listed on the page.
WarningsLong, very committing routes with high obligatory moves. A helmet is recommended.
From where you are

Uses your location only now, only on your device.

GPS: 40.042017, 9.704728

      Nearby crags

      Best months

      Average climate and daylight

      JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
      High °C91013162127303026201511
      Low °C33479141717161175
      Rain mm815351365320131538714376
      Rainy days976562125758
      Sunrise7:437:156:346:446:065:516:046:327:027:327:077:37
      Sunset17:2017:5718:2820:0020:3020:5320:5020:1919:3118:4217:0516:56
      Daylight hours9,610,711,913,314,415,014,813,812,511,210,09,3

      Indicative: calculated from average temperatures and rainfall of the area, not a forecast. Sunrise and sunset: on the 15th of the month, at Cala Gonone.

      The information in this guide (names, grades, lengths, descriptions) may contain errors or be out of date: some routes have been visited in person, others are reported from guides and tips. Always check on the spot before climbing. Climbing is dangerous and is done at your own risk.

      Crag statistics

      Sunniest crags

      Ranking based only on the wall's aspect (south = more sun, north = less). It ignores shade from trees or rock; only crags with a known aspect are included.

      1. Budinetto (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      2. La Poltrona (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      3. Punta Giradili (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      4. Margheddie (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      5. Cala Fuili (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      6. Valle di Lanaitto (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      7. Ziu Martine (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      8. Preda Istampada (W/SW)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      9. Dorgali — Atha Ruja (W/SW)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      10. Oliena — Monte Maccione (W)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      11. I Tornanti (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      12. Cala Luna (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      13. Regno dei Cieli (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      14. Siniscola (W)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      15. Grotta di Biddiriscottai (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      16. Villaggio Gallico (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      17. Monte Oddeu (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      18. Posada (N)
        🌴 Summer crag: little sun, cooler

      The seasonal advice is inferred from the aspect only; it ignores wind, altitude and trees. Arrows show the direction the wall faces. See each crag's page for the best months.

      Where the grades concentrate

      Number of routes per grade band, from the guide's count (projects excluded).

      • up to 5c
      • 6a–6c+
      • 7a and above
      Most easy routes (up to 5c+)
      1. Cala Fuili — 31
      2. Budinetto — 14
      3. La Poltrona — 14
      4. Jerzu — 13
      5. Siniscola — 12
      Most mid-grade routes (6a–6c+)
      1. Isili — 114
      2. Jerzu — 111
      3. Dorgali — Atha Ruja — 64
      4. Cala Fuili — 55
      5. La Poltrona — 42
      Most hard routes (7a and above)
      1. Isili — 120
      2. Jerzu — 100
      3. Codula di Fuili — 59
      4. Strada per Cartoe — 28
      5. Siniscola — 27
      Full table by crag
      Crag≤5c+6a–6c+7a+Total
      Baunei — Punta Plumare0112
      Bruncu Nieddu314522
      Budinetto148022
      Cala Fuili315526112
      Cala Goloritzè112720
      Cala Luna3202548
      Codula di Fuili2355996
      Dorgali — Atha Ruja11641489
      Gole di Gorropu14611
      Grotta di Biddiriscottai6352263
      Grotta Millennium0152439
      I Tornanti1351551
      Isili9114120243
      Jerzu13111100224
      La Poltrona1442662
      Margheddie316221
      Monte Bardia0516
      Monte Cusidore424937
      Monte Oddeu027835
      Oliena — Monte Maccione6371558
      Parete del Donneneittu05813
      Posada88117
      Preda Istampada310316
      Punta Giradili0178
      Regno dei Cieli05914
      Siniscola12342773
      Strada per Cartoe1312860
      Ulassai281323
      Ussassai15612
      Valle di Lanaitto9321556
      Valle di Surtana0707
      Villaggio Gallico211720
      Ziu Martine0156
      Grip and conditions today

      Rough estimate from weather data (Open-Meteo) at the crag's location, not a measurement on the rock. It uses air humidity, rain in the last 48 hours and temperature. Sectors have no coordinates of their own: the value applies to the whole crag. Always check the rock on site.

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