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Biddiriscottai

Sea cave · Cala Gonone · 44 routes · 5b → 8b

Access Coastal path north of Cala Gonone, about 15 minutes on foot.
Character A spectacular cave with sand inside; the routes are almost always in the shade. Excellent friction when the sea breeze blows.
Watch out Mosquitoes in the warm hours and early morning in summer. Holds can turn greasy because of the sea air.
Grotta di Biddiriscottai
Grotta di Biddiriscottai Photo by Lucio Occhipinti

All the routes

Listed left to right. SN marks a route with no name.

01Meteopatia📷 + photo6c/7c
02Thai Dream📷 + photo7a/b
03Ipse Dixit📷 + photo7a
04Mina Vagante📷 + photo6c+
05Ciporrine📷 + photo7a
06Incastro Maligno📷 + photo7b
08Abberrante📷 + photo6b+ / 6c+multipitch2 pitches
09Schiavi Bianchi📷 + photo6c+
10Vertebra📷 + photo6c+
11Sirene al Muro📷 + photo5b
12Lithium📷 + photo5b
14Vai Tossina📷 + photo5c
15Eddy📷 + photo5c
16Bucio de Culo📷 + photo5b
17Fuck📷 + photo5b
20Schiavi della Pietra📷 + photo7a/b
21La Spalliera📷 + photo7b/c
22C'est la Vie📷 + photo7a+
23Mago Dormiglione📷 + photo6c+
24Paolino📷 + photo6c+
25Ariel📷 + photo6c+
26Poseidon📷 + photo7b/c
27Depressione Caspica📷 + photo7c
28Unità di Produzione📷 + photo6a+
29Bimbi📷 + photo6a
30Guardia e Ladri📷 + photo6a
31Heinz📷 + photo6a
32Il Gladiatore📷 + photo5c / 8bmultipitch2 pitches
33Bar Gullich📷 + photo6b
34Les Visiteurs📷 + photo6c+ / 7bmultipitch2 pitches
35Triglia Elettrificata📷 + photo7a+
36Hard Lover📷 + photo7b
37Tetzuya📷 + photo7b+
38M'importa 'na Sega📷 + photo7a+
39Maledetti Miserabili📷 + photo6b+
40La Buazza📷 + photo7a+
41Viva Messico! Viva Zapata📷 + photo6c/7a
42Fiore📷 + photo6b
44Polvere del Messico📷 + photo6c+

Biddiriscottai

Meteopatia 2📷 + photo6c20 m
Nelle fauci del lupo📷 + photo6a+15 m
Happy new year📷 + photo6a+15 m
L'uomo senza problemi📷 + photo6b+25 m
The oblong box📷 + photo6a+40 m
Passo salso📷 + photo6a+28 m
Salmostra📷 + photo6b+20 m
Roccatrice📷 + photo6a25 m
Lo scivolo📷 + photo6a25 m
Bushkashi📷 + photo7b30 m
The hark📷 + photo6a+30 m

Biddiriscottai multipitch (lunghezza = via)

La vita nuova📷 + photo6a+multipitch100 m
Alla ricerca del punto C📷 + photo6b+multipitch100 m
Innocenti deviazioni📷 + photo6a+multipitch90 m
Oceano mare📷 + photo6b+multipitch180 m
Black Cimigiones📷 + photo7amultipitch170 m
I miei amici sardi📷 + photo6cmultipitch110 m
Zanahoria📷 + photo6a+multipitch110 m
Millennium Bug📷 + photo7b+multipitch110 m
Apriti cielo📷 + photo6cmultipitch150 m

Don't miss

Stefan Glowacz climbed "La Spalliera" (7b/c) in the big cave as training before his repeat of Hotel Supramonte in the Gorropu gorge.
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Mountain guides

Guided climbs with a mountain guide

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When to go

Sun, shade and the best months for this crag.

Sun and exposureCave: routes almost always in shade. Mosquitoes in the hot hours and on summer mornings.

Crag at a glance

Approachabout 15 minutes on foot along the coastal path
RockLimestone, cave with sand inside
Altitude50 m a.s.l.
AspectE
Routes: 63up to 5c 6 6a–6c+ 35 7a and above 22Grades: the hardest of each route listed on the page.
From where you are

Uses your location only now, only on your device.

GPS: 40.294049, 9.646263

      Nearby crags

      Best months

      Average climate and daylight

      JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
      High °C91013162127303026201511
      Low °C33479141717161175
      Rain mm815351365320131538714376
      Rainy days976562125758
      Sunrise7:437:156:346:446:065:516:046:327:027:327:077:37
      Sunset17:2017:5718:2820:0020:3020:5320:5020:1919:3118:4217:0516:56
      Daylight hours9,610,711,913,314,415,014,813,812,511,210,09,3

      Indicative: calculated from average temperatures and rainfall of the area, not a forecast. Sunrise and sunset: on the 15th of the month, at Cala Gonone.

      The information in this guide (names, grades, lengths, descriptions) may contain errors or be out of date: some routes have been visited in person, others are reported from guides and tips. Always check on the spot before climbing. Climbing is dangerous and is done at your own risk.

      Crag statistics

      Sunniest crags

      Ranking based only on the wall's aspect (south = more sun, north = less). It ignores shade from trees or rock; only crags with a known aspect are included.

      1. Budinetto (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      2. La Poltrona (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      3. Punta Giradili (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      4. Margheddie (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      5. Cala Fuili (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      6. Valle di Lanaitto (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      7. Ziu Martine (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      8. Preda Istampada (W/SW)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      9. Dorgali — Atha Ruja (W/SW)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      10. Oliena — Monte Maccione (W)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      11. I Tornanti (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      12. Cala Luna (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      13. Regno dei Cieli (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      14. Siniscola (W)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      15. Grotta di Biddiriscottai (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      16. Villaggio Gallico (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      17. Monte Oddeu (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      18. Posada (N)
        🌴 Summer crag: little sun, cooler

      The seasonal advice is inferred from the aspect only; it ignores wind, altitude and trees. Arrows show the direction the wall faces. See each crag's page for the best months.

      Where the grades concentrate

      Number of routes per grade band, from the guide's count (projects excluded).

      • up to 5c
      • 6a–6c+
      • 7a and above
      Most easy routes (up to 5c+)
      1. Cala Fuili — 31
      2. Budinetto — 14
      3. La Poltrona — 14
      4. Jerzu — 13
      5. Siniscola — 12
      Most mid-grade routes (6a–6c+)
      1. Isili — 114
      2. Jerzu — 111
      3. Dorgali — Atha Ruja — 64
      4. Cala Fuili — 55
      5. La Poltrona — 42
      Most hard routes (7a and above)
      1. Isili — 120
      2. Jerzu — 100
      3. Codula di Fuili — 59
      4. Strada per Cartoe — 28
      5. Siniscola — 27
      Full table by crag
      Crag≤5c+6a–6c+7a+Total
      Baunei — Punta Plumare0112
      Bruncu Nieddu314522
      Budinetto148022
      Cala Fuili315526112
      Cala Goloritzè112720
      Cala Luna3202548
      Codula di Fuili2355996
      Dorgali — Atha Ruja11641489
      Gole di Gorropu14611
      Grotta di Biddiriscottai6352263
      Grotta Millennium0152439
      I Tornanti1351551
      Isili9114120243
      Jerzu13111100224
      La Poltrona1442662
      Margheddie316221
      Monte Bardia0516
      Monte Cusidore424937
      Monte Oddeu027835
      Oliena — Monte Maccione6371558
      Parete del Donneneittu05813
      Posada88117
      Preda Istampada310316
      Punta Giradili0178
      Regno dei Cieli05914
      Siniscola12342773
      Strada per Cartoe1312860
      Ulassai281323
      Ussassai15612
      Valle di Lanaitto9321556
      Valle di Surtana0707
      Villaggio Gallico211720
      Ziu Martine0156
      Grip and conditions today

      Rough estimate from weather data (Open-Meteo) at the crag's location, not a measurement on the rock. It uses air humidity, rain in the last 48 hours and temperature. Sectors have no coordinates of their own: the value applies to the whole crag. Always check the rock on site.

        Worth discovering Hiking Cala Gonone to Cala Luna hike from Cala Fuili The coastal path from Cala Fuili to Cala Luna: about 2 hours above the cliffs, with the branch to the Bue Marino cave. Discover →
        Something to take home Take the rock home

        Climbing, trekking and canyoning guides to Sardinia, and photography books about the island. Bought on eBay, not here.

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        Libro Nuovo - Mario Verin / Giulia Castelli / Antonio Cabras - Selvagg…

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        landscape photography books

        landscape photography books

        10,80 GBP

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        Worth packing For the rock and the trail

        Gear and clothing for climbing and trekking. Bought on eBay, not here.

        Gear

        Black Diamond Zone LV Low Volume Women’s Climbing Shoes UK 7…

        47,50 GBP

        Rock Climbing Harness Half Body Safety Belt Outdoor Aerial R…

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        SAFETY HELMET,SCAFFOLDING,CLIMBING HELMET,WORK,HARD HAT,SITE

        15,95 GBP

        Black Diamond Repo Rock Climbing Chalk Bag Small/Medium Sky …

        12,00 GBP

        Berghaus Freeflow 30+6 Rucksack/Backpack with Raincover -min…

        37,10 GBP

        1-2PCS Telescopic Anti-Shock Extendable Trekking Poles Hikin…

        21,89 GBP

        Clothing

        Mountain Warehouse Kids Softshell Hiking Boots Ankle Lace-Up…

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        The North Face Women’s Grey Softshell Full Zip Jacket Logo S…

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        Unisex Mountain Warehouse Snow Trousers Hiking Waterproof Si…

        11,33 GBP

        Mens Merino Military Socks Long Thick Thermal Hiking Walking…

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