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Valle di Lanaitto

3 sectors · 30+ routes · 5c → 7b · Oliena

Access From piazza S. Maria in Oliena, follow signs for the Su Gologone spring. Past the restaurant of the same name, turn right onto the concrete road down to Lanaitho.
Style Climbing on pockets, beautifully sculpted rock. The Silvano sector faces the sun and is unbearable in summer.
Watch out An eagle nests near the Silvano sector — climb quietly. Old bolts may have been stripped: take care on the older routes.
The Gurruttone sector The first grey walls on the right, before dropping into the valley: pockets and dense featuring — the rock people come here for.
Gurruttone sector, Lanaitto Valley
Nuovo settore
Nuovo settore Photo by Lucio Occhipinti

Gurruttone Sector

Park below the first grey walls on the right before dropping into the valley, then follow the path uphill.

3 vie recenti (Enzo Lecis e Marco Bussu)📷 + photo7a+, progetto, 7bsu canne
8/9 vie su placca📷 + photo5c → 6a+incl. Cavallo Pazzo
Via isolata in fondo📷 + photo6bparte con evidente appoggiato

Silvano Sector

Listed from top to bottom. SN marks a route with no name.

01Menta Fresca📷 + photo6a
02Edonismo Radicale📷 + photo6b
03Dilettanti Veneti📷 + photo5c
04Pratiche Morbose📷 + photo6b+
05Non di Solo Pane📷 + photo6a+
08SN📷 + photoprogetto
09Polpastrelli a Rotelle📷 + photo6c
11Il Segreto di Pulcinella📷 + photo7a
12L'Albero di Natale📷 + photo6amultipitch2° lungh. 6b
13Bon Bon per Bimbi📷 + photo6b+
14Non per Disamore📷 + photo7a
15Sempre Dritti per Siurana📷 + photo7b
16Dal Pianeta Lanaitho📷 + photo6c
17Volatili di Bassa Corte📷 + photo6b+
18Coniglietti di Primo Pelo📷 + photo6amultipitch2° lungh. 6b
22Il Pennino📷 + photo7amultipitch2° lungh. 7a
23SN📷 + photoprogetto
24SN📷 + photoprogetto
25Souvenir d'Isabelle📷 + photo7a+multipitch2° lungh. 6c
26Piccoli Uccelletti Socievoli📷 + photo7a
27Bombe Cristiane su Beirut📷 + photo6b
28La Storia del Raponzolo📷 + photo6c+
29Il Violino di Ingres📷 + photo6b
30La Mogliettina di Entrambi📷 + photo6c

Unchinos, Badde Pentumas

Wonderland

Musicland

Trumpet Player📷 + photo6a23 m
Moderato📷 + photo6c+18 m
The Prodigy📷 + photo7b22 m
Rhythm for Svante📷 + photo6a+23 m
Didgeridoo Woman📷 + photo7a+22 m

Su Gurruthone

There is a newer sector to the right of the path towards Silvano (about ten routes, bolted by German climbers, 6b-7b), and another one still growing on the upper arch of the Sa Oche cave.

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When to go

Sun, shade and the best months for this crag.

Sun and exposureSilvano sector: prohibitive exposure in summer.

Crag at a glance

RockLimestone with pockets, excellent texture
AspectSE
Routes: 56up to 5c 9 6a–6c+ 32 7a and above 15Grades: the hardest of each route listed on the page.
WarningsAn eagle nests near the Silvano sector: climb quietly. Old bolts: be careful on older routes.
From where you are

Uses your location only now, only on your device.

GPS: 40.282758, 9.509166

      Nearby crags

      Best months

      Average climate and daylight

      JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
      High °C91013162127303026201511
      Low °C33479141717161175
      Rain mm815351365320131538714376
      Rainy days976562125758
      Sunrise7:437:156:346:446:065:516:046:327:027:327:077:37
      Sunset17:2017:5718:2820:0020:3020:5320:5020:1919:3118:4217:0516:56
      Daylight hours9,610,711,913,314,415,014,813,812,511,210,09,3

      Indicative: calculated from average temperatures and rainfall of the area, not a forecast. Sunrise and sunset: on the 15th of the month, at Cala Gonone.

      The information in this guide (names, grades, lengths, descriptions) may contain errors or be out of date: some routes have been visited in person, others are reported from guides and tips. Always check on the spot before climbing. Climbing is dangerous and is done at your own risk.

      Crag statistics

      Sunniest crags

      Ranking based only on the wall's aspect (south = more sun, north = less). It ignores shade from trees or rock; only crags with a known aspect are included.

      1. Budinetto (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      2. La Poltrona (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      3. Punta Giradili (S/SW)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      4. Margheddie (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      5. Cala Fuili (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      6. Valle di Lanaitto (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      7. Ziu Martine (SE)
        ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
      8. Preda Istampada (W/SW)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      9. Dorgali — Atha Ruja (W/SW)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      10. Oliena — Monte Maccione (W)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      11. I Tornanti (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      12. Cala Luna (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      13. Regno dei Cieli (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      14. Siniscola (W)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
      15. Grotta di Biddiriscottai (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      16. Villaggio Gallico (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      17. Monte Oddeu (E)
        🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
      18. Posada (N)
        🌴 Summer crag: little sun, cooler

      The seasonal advice is inferred from the aspect only; it ignores wind, altitude and trees. Arrows show the direction the wall faces. See each crag's page for the best months.

      Where the grades concentrate

      Number of routes per grade band, from the guide's count (projects excluded).

      • up to 5c
      • 6a–6c+
      • 7a and above
      Most easy routes (up to 5c+)
      1. Cala Fuili — 31
      2. Budinetto — 14
      3. La Poltrona — 14
      4. Jerzu — 13
      5. Siniscola — 12
      Most mid-grade routes (6a–6c+)
      1. Isili — 114
      2. Jerzu — 111
      3. Dorgali — Atha Ruja — 64
      4. Cala Fuili — 55
      5. La Poltrona — 42
      Most hard routes (7a and above)
      1. Isili — 120
      2. Jerzu — 100
      3. Codula di Fuili — 59
      4. Strada per Cartoe — 28
      5. Siniscola — 27
      Full table by crag
      Crag≤5c+6a–6c+7a+Total
      Baunei — Punta Plumare0112
      Bruncu Nieddu314522
      Budinetto148022
      Cala Fuili315526112
      Cala Goloritzè112720
      Cala Luna3202548
      Codula di Fuili2355996
      Dorgali — Atha Ruja11641489
      Gole di Gorropu14611
      Grotta di Biddiriscottai6352263
      Grotta Millennium0152439
      I Tornanti1351551
      Isili9114120243
      Jerzu13111100224
      La Poltrona1442662
      Margheddie316221
      Monte Bardia0516
      Monte Cusidore424937
      Monte Oddeu027835
      Oliena — Monte Maccione6371558
      Parete del Donneneittu05813
      Posada88117
      Preda Istampada310316
      Punta Giradili0178
      Regno dei Cieli05914
      Siniscola12342773
      Strada per Cartoe1312860
      Ulassai281323
      Ussassai15612
      Valle di Lanaitto9321556
      Valle di Surtana0707
      Villaggio Gallico211720
      Ziu Martine0156
      Grip and conditions today

      Rough estimate from weather data (Open-Meteo) at the crag's location, not a measurement on the rock. It uses air humidity, rain in the last 48 hours and temperature. Sectors have no coordinates of their own: the value applies to the whole crag. Always check the rock on site.

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        52,70 GBP

        Full Body Climbing Harness For Children Under 30 Kg - Petzl …

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        Novelty Climbing Chalk Bag - Shark

        23,00 GBP

        Berghaus Freeflow 30+6 Rucksack/Backpack with Raincover -min…

        37,10 GBP

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        Clothing

        Hi-Tec Storm Expedition Sport Men's Navy Waterproof Hiking W…

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