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Siniscola

Gallerie · Paretina per Lodè · Il Balcone · 50 routes · 5b → 8b

Access Paretina per Lodè: from the outskirts of Siniscola take the road to Lodè and park on the right below the wall; lower sector 1 min, upper sector by a path. Il Balcone: from Siniscola towards Olbia, lay-by along the road and a climb to the base.
Note Some routes are projects or unfinished (e.g. Sky Line).
Style Grey limestone with yellow overhangs. Good bolting. Sun after 1 pm. Season: spring and autumn, not advisable in summer.

Gallerie sector

01Olienante📷 + photo7a+15 m
02Tempu de Baristas📷 + photo6c15 m
03Indocina📷 + photo6a25 m
04SN📷 + photo6a+25 m
05Man Walking the Sky📷 + photo6c+15 m
06Sky Line📷 + photo?15 m

Paretina per Lodè — lower sector

01Tempus Fugit📷 + photo6b25 m
02Tempi Supplementari📷 + photo6b+25 m
03Altri Tempi📷 + photo6c25 m
04Tempo al Tempo📷 + photo6a15 m
05SN📷 + photo5c20 m
06Tempo per Pensare📷 + photo5c28 m
07SN📷 + photo5b20 m
08SN📷 + photo5b20 m
09Contro il Tempo📷 + photo6a15 m
10Tempo di Migrare📷 + photo6b15 m
11SN📷 + photo6c15 m
12Tempaccio📷 + photo5c20 m
13A Tempo di Jazz📷 + photo5c20 m

Paretina per Lodè — upper sector

01La Vita è Bella📷 + photo6a+35 m
02Manto Nero📷 + photo6c25 m
03Yol📷 + photo6a25 m
04Il Grande Freddo📷 + photo6b25 m
05Petunia📷 + photo5c20 m
06Otto e Mezzo📷 + photo5c20 m
07Don Treb📷 + photo6c+20 m
08Brognolus Kids📷 + photo7b+25 m
09Tabù📷 + photo8b?25 m
10Dislolie📷 + photo6c+25 m
11Predas Roddulende📷 + photo7b/c25 m
12Amici Miei📷 + photoprogetto25 m
13Targhet📷 + photo7b25 m
14Slot Machine📷 + photoprogetto25 m
15Per Elisa📷 + photo7b/c20 m
16Madraffa📷 + photo7a20 m
17El Torcal📷 + photo7c25 m
18Cuore di Canna📷 + photo7b/7b+25 m
19Senerentola📷 + photo7a25 m
20Pensando a Stefania📷 + photo6b25 m

Il Balcone

Paretina per Lodè

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When to go

Sun, shade and the best months for this crag.

Sun and exposureSun after 1 pm. Not recommended in summer.

Crag at a glance

Approachfrom one minute to a few minutes on foot, depending on the sector
RockGrey limestone with yellow overhangs
Altitude176 m a.s.l.
AspectW
Routes: 73up to 5c 12 6a–6c+ 34 7a and above 27Grades: the hardest of each route listed on the page.
WarningsSome routes are still projects or unfinished.

Best months

Average climate and daylight

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
High °C91013162127303026201511
Low °C33479141717161175
Rain mm815351365320131538714376
Rainy days976562125758
Sunrise7:437:156:346:446:065:516:046:327:027:327:077:37
Sunset17:2017:5718:2820:0020:3020:5320:5020:1919:3118:4217:0516:56
Daylight hours9,610,711,913,314,415,014,813,812,511,210,09,3

Indicative: calculated from average temperatures and rainfall of the area, not a forecast. Sunrise and sunset: on the 15th of the month, at Cala Gonone.

The information in this guide (names, grades, lengths, descriptions) may contain errors or be out of date: some routes have been visited in person, others are reported from guides and tips. Always check on the spot before climbing. Climbing is dangerous and is done at your own risk.

Crag statistics

Sunniest crags

Ranking based only on the wall's aspect (south = more sun, north = less). It ignores shade from trees or rock; only crags with a known aspect are included.

  1. Budinetto (S/SW)
    ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
  2. La Poltrona (S/SW)
    ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
  3. Punta Giradili (S/SW)
    ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
  4. Margheddie (SE)
    ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
  5. Cala Fuili (SE)
    ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
  6. Valle di Lanaitto (SE)
    ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
  7. Ziu Martine (SE)
    ❄️ Winter crag: full sun, hot in summer
  8. Preda Istampada (W/SW)
    🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
  9. Dorgali — Atha Ruja (W/SW)
    🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
  10. Oliena — Monte Maccione (W)
    🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
  11. I Tornanti (E)
    🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
  12. Cala Luna (E)
    🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
  13. Regno dei Cieli (E)
    🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
  14. Siniscola (W)
    🍂 Spring and autumn: morning shade, afternoon sun
  15. Grotta di Biddiriscottai (E)
    🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
  16. Villaggio Gallico (E)
    🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
  17. Monte Oddeu (E)
    🍂 Spring and autumn: morning sun, afternoon shade
  18. Posada (N)
    🌴 Summer crag: little sun, cooler

The seasonal advice is inferred from the aspect only; it ignores wind, altitude and trees. Arrows show the direction the wall faces. See each crag's page for the best months.

Where the grades concentrate

Number of routes per grade band, from the guide's count (projects excluded).

  • up to 5c
  • 6a–6c+
  • 7a and above
Most easy routes (up to 5c+)
  1. Cala Fuili — 31
  2. Budinetto — 14
  3. La Poltrona — 14
  4. Jerzu — 13
  5. Siniscola — 12
Most mid-grade routes (6a–6c+)
  1. Isili — 114
  2. Jerzu — 111
  3. Dorgali — Atha Ruja — 64
  4. Cala Fuili — 55
  5. La Poltrona — 42
Most hard routes (7a and above)
  1. Isili — 120
  2. Jerzu — 100
  3. Codula di Fuili — 59
  4. Strada per Cartoe — 28
  5. Siniscola — 27
Full table by crag
Crag≤5c+6a–6c+7a+Total
Baunei — Punta Plumare0112
Bruncu Nieddu314522
Budinetto148022
Cala Fuili315526112
Cala Goloritzè112720
Cala Luna3202548
Codula di Fuili2355996
Dorgali — Atha Ruja11641489
Gole di Gorropu14611
Grotta di Biddiriscottai6352263
Grotta Millennium0152439
I Tornanti1351551
Isili9114120243
Jerzu13111100224
La Poltrona1442662
Margheddie316221
Monte Bardia0516
Monte Cusidore424937
Monte Oddeu027835
Oliena — Monte Maccione6371558
Parete del Donneneittu05813
Posada88117
Preda Istampada310316
Punta Giradili0178
Regno dei Cieli05914
Siniscola12342773
Strada per Cartoe1312860
Ulassai281323
Ussassai15612
Valle di Lanaitto9321556
Valle di Surtana0707
Villaggio Gallico211720
Ziu Martine0156
Grip and conditions today

Rough estimate from weather data (Open-Meteo) at the crag's location, not a measurement on the rock. It uses air humidity, rain in the last 48 hours and temperature. Sectors have no coordinates of their own: the value applies to the whole crag. Always check the rock on site.

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